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#1
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Suggested repairs
Since my '99 SL2 has been going strong for 6 years with no major
problems (2 sets of front discs, 1 set of rear drums, 2 sets of motor mounts, 4 tires) and I'm about to hit 100k this week, I took it into the dealership to get a once over to see what they thought I needed. Since I haven't had to do much to this car, I was wondering what was real, what was possible to do myself, and what was dealer profit. Suggested repairs: 1) Fuel Filter 2) Wire set (spark plug wires?) 3) Serpentine belt 4) T/A mount (I think they want to replace the motor mounts again, how critical is it if the motor mounts are worn?) 5) Throttle body and decarbonization service (pure profit???) 6) Power steering flush 7) 30k service (coolant flush, oil change, transmission fluid change, tire rotation & balance, spark plugs) I feel pretty confident that I could tackle the spark plugs and wires (if I had to). Not really willing to change the automatic transaxle fluid (I don't want the mess.) Dealer wants to charge $1089 for the whole mess. Any ideas? Girmann |
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#2
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On 19 Jan 2005 12:59:30 -0800, "Girmann" > wrote:
>Since my '99 SL2 has been going strong for 6 years with no major >problems (2 sets of front discs, 1 set of rear drums, 2 sets of motor >mounts, 4 tires) and I'm about to hit 100k this week, I took it into >the dealership to get a once over to see what they thought I needed. >Since I haven't had to do much to this car, I was wondering what was >real, what was possible to do myself, and what was dealer profit. > >Suggested repairs: > >1) Fuel Filter >2) Wire set (spark plug wires?) >3) Serpentine belt >4) T/A mount (I think they want to replace the motor mounts again, how >critical is it if the motor mounts are worn?) >5) Throttle body and decarbonization service (pure profit???) >6) Power steering flush >7) 30k service (coolant flush, oil change, transmission fluid change, >tire rotation & balance, spark plugs) > >I feel pretty confident that I could tackle the spark plugs and wires >(if I had to). Not really willing to change the automatic transaxle >fluid (I don't want the mess.) Dealer wants to charge $1089 for the >whole mess. > >Any ideas? > >Girmann Big time rip-off. Do you want to "flush" you hard earned money down your dealers ..... Change your fuel filter (expensive every 100K) your fluids, filters, and spark plugs if you haven't already. Tranny drains just like the motor and the filter is under the air box. If your willing to get you hands a little dirty you can save yourself $800.00. but if your money grows on trees go for it. Steve |
#3
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Steve wrote:
> On 19 Jan 2005 12:59:30 -0800, "Girmann" > wrote: > > >>Since my '99 SL2 has been going strong for 6 years with no major >>problems (2 sets of front discs, 1 set of rear drums, 2 sets of motor >>mounts, 4 tires) and I'm about to hit 100k this week, I took it into >>the dealership to get a once over to see what they thought I needed. >>Since I haven't had to do much to this car, I was wondering what was >>real, what was possible to do myself, and what was dealer profit. >> >>Suggested repairs: >> >>1) Fuel Filter >>2) Wire set (spark plug wires?) >>3) Serpentine belt >>4) T/A mount (I think they want to replace the motor mounts again, how >>critical is it if the motor mounts are worn?) >>5) Throttle body and decarbonization service (pure profit???) >>6) Power steering flush >>7) 30k service (coolant flush, oil change, transmission fluid change, >>tire rotation & balance, spark plugs) >> >>I feel pretty confident that I could tackle the spark plugs and wires >>(if I had to). Not really willing to change the automatic transaxle >>fluid (I don't want the mess.) Dealer wants to charge $1089 for the >>whole mess. >> >>Any ideas? >> >>Girmann > > > Big time rip-off. Do you want to "flush" you hard earned money down > your dealers ..... Change your fuel filter (expensive every 100K) > your fluids, filters, and spark plugs if you haven't already. Tranny > drains just like the motor and the filter is under the air box. If > your willing to get you hands a little dirty you can save yourself > $800.00. but if your money grows on trees go for it. > > Steve As Steve says, the trasnmission fluid is a cinch. It's much easier than the oil and filter on this car. The torque axis mount (which you've already had done) may need to be done again. You will notice a big difference if it is indeed bad. You can do it with a jack and a deep socket (I forget the size). The serpentine belt is simple. All you need is a socket handle (no sockets). Throttle body cleaning is probably a good idea, but you can do that yourself in ten minutes for the price of a can of cleaner. Spark plugs are trivial, especially if you're already replacing the wires. I've never done a power steering flush. I wonder if that's recommended in the owner's manual. If not, I'd skip it. Coolant flush & oil change aren't that hard if you have the stuff to do it. Same with tire rotation. I've never done the fuel filter, as it's a pricey item. Last time I asked the guys at the Saturn dealer, they said it wasn't something that normally needed changing on this car. |
#4
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1) Fuel filter - Good idea at 100k. On my 97, it was near the engine. I
don't know where it is on the 99. Hope that it isn't in the gas tank - that's a real pain in the ass location. 2) Wire set. Good idea, Do it yourself - it's trivial. Spark plugs, good idea too (every 30k miles). Use anti seize compound on the threads, dielectric grease on the insulators, and dielectric grease on the wires where they seal to the coil packs. Simple work to do yourself, and a reasonable thing to do. 3) Serpentine belt. Yup. Good idea. I'd run a serp belt on an SL2 for about 50k miles. 4) Torque Axis mount. Yup. The torque axis mounts on Saturns are notorious for dying. 5) Throttle body. If you're good with your hands, you can do this work yourself. I did it by removing the throttle body, removing the electronic gizmos and doo-dads from it, and cleaning it really well all over with throttle body cleaner. Then reassemble, and put on with a new gasket. About $8 for the gasket, $1 for the cleaner, and about 40 minutes. Reasonable to suggest. 6) Power steering flush. This is the only thing that I'm dubious about being needed. 7) At 100k, it's time for new Dexcool coolant. You can easily do this yourself. You don't need to flush, just drain the radiator and the engine. You can do this yourself. Oil change - yes. Tranny fluid and filter change - you can do that yourself and save. It's about $50 for the fluid and the filter, and it takes about 40 minutes. Except for the few things you have to take apart to get to the tranny filter, it's just like an oil change. (You fill the fluid through the tranny dipstick hole). I'm presuming that you have an automatic. All in all, I think that the things that the dealer is recommending are pretty reasonable. Of course, if it were MY car, I'd do the work myself and save some serious change. Good Luck! "Girmann" > wrote in message oups.com... > Since my '99 SL2 has been going strong for 6 years with no major > problems (2 sets of front discs, 1 set of rear drums, 2 sets of motor > mounts, 4 tires) and I'm about to hit 100k this week, I took it into > the dealership to get a once over to see what they thought I needed. > Since I haven't had to do much to this car, I was wondering what was > real, what was possible to do myself, and what was dealer profit. > > Suggested repairs: > > 1) Fuel Filter > 2) Wire set (spark plug wires?) > 3) Serpentine belt > 4) T/A mount (I think they want to replace the motor mounts again, how > critical is it if the motor mounts are worn?) > 5) Throttle body and decarbonization service (pure profit???) > 6) Power steering flush > 7) 30k service (coolant flush, oil change, transmission fluid change, > tire rotation & balance, spark plugs) > > I feel pretty confident that I could tackle the spark plugs and wires > (if I had to). Not really willing to change the automatic transaxle > fluid (I don't want the mess.) Dealer wants to charge $1089 for the > whole mess. > > Any ideas? > > Girmann > |
#5
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My biggest worry is that I don't have many of the tools needed for many
of these repairs, nor would I know what to do with the stuff once I got it out of the car. For instance, what do you store the tranny, antifreeze, etc in, and where do you put it once you've got it out of the car? What special equipment, tools, etc would I need for each repair? I bought a "mechanics toolset" from Sears a while back and the "deep sockets" weren't even deep enough to take out the spark plug on my lawn mower. If I were to make a shopping list for the repairs, it would look like I need: 1: I have no idea what I'd need for this? Are there special connectors that could possibly break? Any special tools to get at it? 2: antiseize compound, dielectric grease, deep sockets, socket extension 3: Socket handle ;-) Anything else? 4: car jack (no, I don't have one) jack stands (???), do I need a special jack to lift the motor? 5: any tools needed to replace the gasket? 7: oil filter wrench, gaskets? Any special tools to open the drains on the coolant, oil, or tranny? I've heard that changing tranny fluid is easy to screw up the first time. Thanks for all your help. Since this is a car that I'm hoping will last another 30k, I should be getting used to doing this stuff myself. Would a repair guide (like Chiltons) be worthwhile? Thanks again! Girmann Kirk Kohnen wrote: > 1) Fuel filter - Good idea at 100k. On my 97, it was near the engine. I > don't know where it is on the 99. Hope that it isn't in the gas tank - > that's a real pain in the ass location. > > 2) Wire set. Good idea, Do it yourself - it's trivial. Spark plugs, good > idea too (every 30k miles). Use anti seize compound on the threads, > dielectric grease on the insulators, and dielectric grease on the wires > where they seal to the coil packs. Simple work to do yourself, and a > reasonable thing to do. > > 3) Serpentine belt. Yup. Good idea. I'd run a serp belt on an SL2 for about > 50k miles. > > 4) Torque Axis mount. Yup. The torque axis mounts on Saturns are notorious > for dying. > > 5) Throttle body. If you're good with your hands, you can do this work > yourself. I did it by removing the throttle body, removing the electronic > gizmos and doo-dads from it, and cleaning it really well all over with > throttle body cleaner. Then reassemble, and put on with a new gasket. About > $8 for the gasket, $1 for the cleaner, and about 40 minutes. Reasonable to > suggest. > > 6) Power steering flush. This is the only thing that I'm dubious about being > needed. > > 7) At 100k, it's time for new Dexcool coolant. You can easily do this > yourself. You don't need to flush, just drain the radiator and the engine. > You can do this yourself. Oil change - yes. Tranny fluid and filter change - > you can do that yourself and save. It's about $50 for the fluid and the > filter, and it takes about 40 minutes. Except for the few things you have to > take apart to get to the tranny filter, it's just like an oil change. (You > fill the fluid through the tranny dipstick hole). I'm presuming that you > have an automatic. > > All in all, I think that the things that the dealer is recommending are > pretty reasonable. Of course, if it were MY car, I'd do the work myself and > save some serious change. Good Luck! > |
#6
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This is where having a friend in the know (preferably with a heated garage)
and all the tools comes in handy. I could write volumes about this but it comes down to having someone go through it with you and help you get a feel for how things go together. Without the proper tools and a good feel about how much force to use, something usually breaks, gets stripped or generally elicits epithets. If you can't do the work yourself, get quotes from several shops (not necessarily Saturn). A small shop may even let you watch so that you can learn. "Girmann" > wrote in message ups.com... > My biggest worry is that I don't have many of the tools needed for many > of these repairs, nor would I know what to do with the stuff once I got > it out of the car. For instance, what do you store the tranny, > antifreeze, etc in, and where do you put it once you've got it out of > the car? > |
#7
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2) The deep sockets in your set don't work for spark plugs. You'll
need a spark plug socket for that. Your tool set should have an extension in it. If not, you'll haveto buy one. 3) Use the socket handle from your tool set. 4) You _can_ use the jack in the trunk to jack the engine up while you change the torque axis mount. It won't be as easy as with a floor jack, but it should work fine. Those deep sockets should work on this item. 5) Probably nothing that you don't already have, but I can't remember exactly. 7) A filter wrench might be necessary to get the oil filter off, depending on how tight it is (I don't usually need one). Of course, you'll need an oil drain pan. You can use the same pan for the other fluids (drain it into a milk carton first). I find that ramps are required for oil changes. I don't remember the tranny fluid being tricky. You do have to take the air filter off to get to the filter from the top. Maybe the "easy to screw up" part is refilling it? Make sure you shift in and out of all the gears, and check it while the engine is hot, running, and on a flat surface. A Chilton's or Haynes manual would probably be helpful to you. Girmann wrote: > My biggest worry is that I don't have many of the tools needed for many > of these repairs, nor would I know what to do with the stuff once I got > it out of the car. For instance, what do you store the tranny, > antifreeze, etc in, and where do you put it once you've got it out of > the car? > > What special equipment, tools, etc would I need for each repair? I > bought a "mechanics toolset" from Sears a while back and the "deep > sockets" weren't even deep enough to take out the spark plug on my lawn > mower. > > If I were to make a shopping list for the repairs, it would look like I > need: > > 1: I have no idea what I'd need for this? Are there special > connectors that could possibly break? Any special tools to get at it? > > 2: antiseize compound, dielectric grease, deep sockets, socket > extension > > 3: Socket handle ;-) Anything else? > > 4: car jack (no, I don't have one) jack stands (???), do I need a > special jack to lift the motor? > > 5: any tools needed to replace the gasket? > > 7: oil filter wrench, gaskets? Any special tools to open the drains > on the coolant, oil, or tranny? I've heard that changing tranny fluid > is easy to screw up the first time. > > Thanks for all your help. Since this is a car that I'm hoping will > last another 30k, I should be getting used to doing this stuff myself. > Would a repair guide (like Chiltons) be worthwhile? > > Thanks again! > > Girmann > > > Kirk Kohnen wrote: > >>1) Fuel filter - Good idea at 100k. On my 97, it was near the engine. > > I > >>don't know where it is on the 99. Hope that it isn't in the gas tank > > - > >>that's a real pain in the ass location. >> >>2) Wire set. Good idea, Do it yourself - it's trivial. Spark plugs, > > good > >>idea too (every 30k miles). Use anti seize compound on the threads, >>dielectric grease on the insulators, and dielectric grease on the > > wires > >>where they seal to the coil packs. Simple work to do yourself, and a >>reasonable thing to do. >> >>3) Serpentine belt. Yup. Good idea. I'd run a serp belt on an SL2 for > > about > >>50k miles. >> >>4) Torque Axis mount. Yup. The torque axis mounts on Saturns are > > notorious > >>for dying. >> >>5) Throttle body. If you're good with your hands, you can do this > > work > >>yourself. I did it by removing the throttle body, removing the > > electronic > >>gizmos and doo-dads from it, and cleaning it really well all over > > with > >>throttle body cleaner. Then reassemble, and put on with a new gasket. > > About > >>$8 for the gasket, $1 for the cleaner, and about 40 minutes. > > Reasonable to > >>suggest. >> >>6) Power steering flush. This is the only thing that I'm dubious > > about being > >>needed. >> >>7) At 100k, it's time for new Dexcool coolant. You can easily do this > > >>yourself. You don't need to flush, just drain the radiator and the > > engine. > >>You can do this yourself. Oil change - yes. Tranny fluid and filter > > change - > >>you can do that yourself and save. It's about $50 for the fluid and > > the > >>filter, and it takes about 40 minutes. Except for the few things you > > have to > >>take apart to get to the tranny filter, it's just like an oil change. > > (You > >>fill the fluid through the tranny dipstick hole). I'm presuming that > > you > >>have an automatic. >> >>All in all, I think that the things that the dealer is recommending > > are > >>pretty reasonable. Of course, if it were MY car, I'd do the work > > myself and > >>save some serious change. Good Luck! >> > > |
#8
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"Girmann" > wrote in message ups.com... > My biggest worry is that I don't have many of the tools needed for many > of these repairs, nor would I know what to do with the stuff once I got > it out of the car. For instance, what do you store the tranny, > antifreeze, etc in, and where do you put it once you've got it out of > the car? > > What special equipment, tools, etc would I need for each repair? I > bought a "mechanics toolset" from Sears a while back and the "deep > sockets" weren't even deep enough to take out the spark plug on my lawn > mower. > > If I were to make a shopping list for the repairs, it would look like I > need: > > 1: I have no idea what I'd need for this? Are there special > connectors that could possibly break? Any special tools to get at it? I can't really help on this one - I believe the 97s had the fuel filter in a different place than the 99s. > > 2: antiseize compound, dielectric grease, deep sockets, socket > extension > > 3: Socket handle ;-) Anything else? Actually, a 14mm (IIRC) wrench for releasing the tensioner. You put the wrench on the nut of the pulley of the tensioner and crank it clockwise. This causes the tensioner to not push on the belt. While you're holding it, remove the belt. Best way to get to it is to remove the right front wheel, and remove the plastic splash guards. The locking pins are removed by pulling the centers out then removing them. > > 4: car jack (no, I don't have one) jack stands (???), do I need a > special jack to lift the motor? You can buy a cheap floor jack for $20 at any auto repair place. When I've used such jacks to support the motor, I use an old phone book between the jack and the bottom of the oil pan. I suppose you could use a new book even. > > 5: any tools needed to replace the gasket? Nah. It's a metal sandwitch type gasket. Remove it (no scraping needed) and put the new one in its place. > > 7: oil filter wrench, gaskets? Any special tools to open the drains > on the coolant, oil, or tranny? I've heard that changing tranny fluid > is easy to screw up the first time. The best wrenches that I've found for the oil filters are the cap wrenches. They look like little hats that get put over the oil filter. A 3/8" wrench fits in them. Draining tranny fluid on an SL is just like draining oil - just a different plug in a different location. The filter is very much like a typical oil filter (it's under the air intake resonator / air filter - you need to remove these to get to it). Filling the fluid requires a long funnel so that you can fill through a 5/8" diameter hole that is hard to get to. For most cars tranny fluid changes take some skill, but not a Saturn SL. Oil is just a plug (13 mm I think). Tranny fluid is 14 mm I think. The coolant drain on the block is a 10mm bolt. The coolant plug on the radiator takes a 1/4" drive inserted into the 1/4" square hole in it. Turn counter clockwise 1/4 turn and pull out. > > Thanks for all your help. Since this is a car that I'm hoping will > last another 30k, I should be getting used to doing this stuff myself. > Would a repair guide (like Chiltons) be worthwhile? Chiltons would be a good idea. Haynes would be another. I had an www.alldatadiy.com subscription for my SLs - $24 per year to start, $15 per year to maintain. I considered it a bargain for those cars (close to useless for my IONs though. Sigh.) > > Thanks again! > > Girmann > > > Kirk Kohnen wrote: >> 1) Fuel filter - Good idea at 100k. On my 97, it was near the engine. > I >> don't know where it is on the 99. Hope that it isn't in the gas tank > - >> that's a real pain in the ass location. >> >> 2) Wire set. Good idea, Do it yourself - it's trivial. Spark plugs, > good >> idea too (every 30k miles). Use anti seize compound on the threads, >> dielectric grease on the insulators, and dielectric grease on the > wires >> where they seal to the coil packs. Simple work to do yourself, and a >> reasonable thing to do. >> >> 3) Serpentine belt. Yup. Good idea. I'd run a serp belt on an SL2 for > about >> 50k miles. >> >> 4) Torque Axis mount. Yup. The torque axis mounts on Saturns are > notorious >> for dying. >> >> 5) Throttle body. If you're good with your hands, you can do this > work >> yourself. I did it by removing the throttle body, removing the > electronic >> gizmos and doo-dads from it, and cleaning it really well all over > with >> throttle body cleaner. Then reassemble, and put on with a new gasket. > About >> $8 for the gasket, $1 for the cleaner, and about 40 minutes. > Reasonable to >> suggest. >> >> 6) Power steering flush. This is the only thing that I'm dubious > about being >> needed. >> >> 7) At 100k, it's time for new Dexcool coolant. You can easily do this > >> yourself. You don't need to flush, just drain the radiator and the > engine. >> You can do this yourself. Oil change - yes. Tranny fluid and filter > change - >> you can do that yourself and save. It's about $50 for the fluid and > the >> filter, and it takes about 40 minutes. Except for the few things you > have to >> take apart to get to the tranny filter, it's just like an oil change. > (You >> fill the fluid through the tranny dipstick hole). I'm presuming that > you >> have an automatic. >> >> All in all, I think that the things that the dealer is recommending > are >> pretty reasonable. Of course, if it were MY car, I'd do the work > myself and >> save some serious change. Good Luck! >> > |
#9
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>2) The deep sockets in your set don't work for spark plugs. You'll
>need a spark plug socket for that. Your tool set should have an >extension in it. If not, you'll haveto buy one. Care to inform why not? And don't say "because it doesn't have the <annoying as hell> rubber grommet" |
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