If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
PT Cruiser and trailer lights
It's my understanding the PT Cruiser (this is a 2001) requires a special
interface between the auto lighting and the trailer lights. If this is correct can someone supply more information? (I suspect that hooking the trailer brake/turn-sig lights directly to the auto "loads" the auto lighting circuitry such that it won't function or even perhaps be damaged. If this is the case I'd suspect the interface consists of a circuit that appears as rather high impedance to the brake/turn-sig circuitry and switches current from the tail lighting source to the brake/turn sig lights when used (?)) |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Looks like I jumped the gun. With a little research, and looking at the
rear lights, it looks like the brake and turn-sig are separate bulbs--ie they don't use the same filament for brake and turn-sig like a lot of cars do. An interface module should only essentially consist of a pair of diodes each side to drive the single filament on the trailer from either/both brake and turn-sig circuits while keeping them separate in the Cruiser. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
jimhigh66 wrote: > Looks like I jumped the gun. With a little research, and looking at the > rear lights, it looks like the brake and turn-sig are separate bulbs--ie > they don't use the same filament for brake and turn-sig like a lot of cars > do. An interface module should only essentially consist of a pair of > diodes each side to drive the single filament on the trailer from > either/both brake and turn-sig circuits while keeping them separate in the > Cruiser. If what you say is the case, it's not just a pair of diodes - but there is a converter box available to make it work properly. If you think about it, a pair of diodes wouldn't help - you still wouldn't get turn signal action while the brake lights were on. You could accomplish what you need to do by adding a relay to cut out the brake light on each side and hold it off for a second or two while the directional is active on that side (in addition to your diodes) if you really wanted to cobble something together yourself. good luck, nate |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
On Wed, 20 Jul 2005, jimhigh66 wrote:
> it looks like the brake and turn-sig are separate bulbs--ie they don't > use the same filament for brake and turn-sig like a lot of cars do. An > interface module should only essentially consist of a pair of diodes > each side to drive the single filament on the trailer from either/both > brake and turn-sig circuits while keeping them separate in the Cruiser. That's what the "light converter/interface" units for sale at every U-Haul location do, yes. I've seen so many of these working improperly on the road. They seem to have the standard 50/50 durability thing going (50 miles or 50 minutes, whichever occurs first). If I were pulling a trailer with a vehicle that had separate brake and turn lights, I'd just add separate turn lights to the trailer and avoid messing with Rube Goldberg "converter" devices. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message .umich.edu... > On Wed, 20 Jul 2005, jimhigh66 wrote: > > > it looks like the brake and turn-sig are separate bulbs--ie they don't > > use the same filament for brake and turn-sig like a lot of cars do. An > > interface module should only essentially consist of a pair of diodes > > each side to drive the single filament on the trailer from either/both > > brake and turn-sig circuits while keeping them separate in the Cruiser. > > That's what the "light converter/interface" units for sale at every U-Haul > location do, yes. > > I've seen so many of these working improperly on the road. They seem to > have the standard 50/50 durability thing going (50 miles or 50 minutes, > whichever occurs first). > > If I were pulling a trailer with a vehicle that had separate brake and > turn lights, I'd just add separate turn lights to the trailer and avoid > messing with Rube Goldberg "converter" devices. I went to the dealer and bought the MOPAR harness, complete with "converter" for my 1999 Intrepid. Except for the LARGE hole I had to drill behind the right taillight, it was a slick install - plug and play. Still going strong and working fine 6 years and 100K miles later. It was a bit of coin (~$70 CDN), but comparable in price to the "plug-and-play" Reese units sold by the local parts stores. Makes for a well sealed, robust installation. Two notes: The "converter" isolates the BCM which controls the signals from the trailer lights - common trailer shorts don't roast your BCM. Also, the common method of testing the turn/brake lights by turning on the hazards and checking the bulbs doesn't do the trick any more - you need to also have someone check to see that the brake lights come on when you step on them in the car - to make sure the "converter" is still working properly. -- Jeff Falkiner 95 neon - the Road Rocket 99 Intrepid - the Green Monster 04 Sebring - the Silver Bullet |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Just put a new set of trailer lights on and could not find a set anywhere
that sported amber turn segments. I assume this is a common item in the rest of the world. Richard. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Richard wrote: > Just put a new set of trailer lights on and could not find a set anywhere > that sported amber turn segments. I assume this is a common item in the rest > of the world. > > Richard. just buy separate amber lights, no big deal. nate |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
On Thu, 21 Jul 2005, it was written:
> Just put a new set of trailer lights on and could not find a set > anywhere that sported amber turn segments. I assume this is a common > item in the rest of the world. www.truck-lite.com www.pmlights.com |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
On Thu, 21 Jul 2005, "Richard" > wrote: > Just put a new set of trailer lights on and could not find a set > anywhere that sported amber turn segments. I assume this is a common > item in the rest of the world. Options from Truck-Lite: http://tinyurl.com/by4ln Options from Hella Germany: 2SD 964 169-111 photo: http://dastern.torque.net/lampics/2SD964169111.jpg dimensions: http://dastern.torque.net/lampics/2SD964169111dim.jpg 2XL 005 194-011 (left; right unit is -021): photo: http://dastern.torque.net/lampics/2XL005194011.jpg dimensions: http://dastern.torque.net/lampics/2XL005194011dim.jpg Options from Hella Australia: http://db.hella.com.au/cgi-bin/catal...w&flmaint=2133 (the compact option) http://db.hella.com.au/cgi-bin/catal...w&flmaint=1181 (the "go big or go home" option) LEDs neatly sidestep the BCM interface problem; they draw next to zero current; the BCM simply disregards the trivial extra current as normal bulb-to-bulb production variations...also, no bulb burnouts, much less problem with connections and grounds, etc, plus much better photometric performance than is obtained from most US bulb-type trailer lights. All this stuff is easily available; you just have to know whom to ask. DS ;-) |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the comments. Nate is correct -- just a pair of diodes (an OR
circuit) would prevent turn flashing when the brakes are applied. And, I certainly don't want to risk damaging the PT circuitry by possibly drawing too much current. Nor do I want to rewire the trailer lights and make the 4-wire connection "obsolete" because I have other vehicles that have the 4-wire connection. It looks like it's not as cheap and easy as I first thought. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|