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1991 Ford Explorer Dipstick Breaks



 
 
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  #11  
Old December 14th 04, 02:46 AM
John Riggs
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My question was more along the lines of his getting another dipstick and
annealing it so it's not so brittle, and making sure the end is rounded so
it can move past any obstacle that may be catching it? It's what I would
do....at least once.

"F.H." > wrote in message
news:ISmvd.6835$xa6.2758@trnddc09...
| EJB wrote:
| > I thought something along them lines, so I was keeping a close check on
the
| > dipstick, I never seen any marking to indicate it was being hit, and I
never
| > felt any sort of vibrations coming through it when I would touch the
handle
| > end while the motor was running. As far as hitting a connecting rod
and
| > causing it to break the dipstick has always broken with the motor turned
| > off. I would just be pushing it in and snap.
| > Very weird.
|
| A tool and die maker often design products with an indent in some area
| if they wish it to break during assembly or so it can be adjusted for use.
|
| I suspect that the bottom of your dipstick (for whatever reason) is
| being torqued (bent but not broken) when in place. The constant
| pressure and changing temperatures weaken it until it just snaps. I
| would try polishing it (the replacement) till it shines, clean it with
| acetone and then color it with something very light (dykem would be
| ideal) and push it in and out while the engine is off, and cold. Then
| check for marks on the dipstick.
|
| Maybe you could adapt one of those later model dipsticks that are made
| of cable.


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  #12  
Old December 14th 04, 02:27 PM
Big Shoe
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You said that the engine had been replaced. That makes me wonder if
you are purchasing the right dipstick. Don't know if they used
different designs in different model years, but bet they did.

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 20:46:24 -0600, "John Riggs"
> wrote:

> My question was more along the lines of his getting another dipstick and
>annealing it so it's not so brittle, and making sure the end is rounded so
>it can move past any obstacle that may be catching it? It's what I would
>do....at least once.
>
>"F.H." > wrote in message
>news:ISmvd.6835$xa6.2758@trnddc09...
>| EJB wrote:
>| > I thought something along them lines, so I was keeping a close check on
>the
>| > dipstick, I never seen any marking to indicate it was being hit, and I
>never
>| > felt any sort of vibrations coming through it when I would touch the
>handle
>| > end while the motor was running. As far as hitting a connecting rod
>and
>| > causing it to break the dipstick has always broken with the motor turned
>| > off. I would just be pushing it in and snap.
>| > Very weird.
>|
>| A tool and die maker often design products with an indent in some area
>| if they wish it to break during assembly or so it can be adjusted for use.
>|
>| I suspect that the bottom of your dipstick (for whatever reason) is
>| being torqued (bent but not broken) when in place. The constant
>| pressure and changing temperatures weaken it until it just snaps. I
>| would try polishing it (the replacement) till it shines, clean it with
>| acetone and then color it with something very light (dykem would be
>| ideal) and push it in and out while the engine is off, and cold. Then
>| check for marks on the dipstick.
>|
>| Maybe you could adapt one of those later model dipsticks that are made
>| of cable.
>


  #13  
Old December 14th 04, 10:55 PM
EJB
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Posts: n/a
Default

I was thinking that, I went to the local salvage yard today and picked up a
Dipstick that was made of cable, off a newer vehicle, it goes in unmolested
and works like a charm. Thanks for all the suggestions.

"Big Shoe" > wrote in message
...
> You said that the engine had been replaced. That makes me wonder if
> you are purchasing the right dipstick. Don't know if they used
> different designs in different model years, but bet they did.
>
> On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 20:46:24 -0600, "John Riggs"
> > wrote:
>
>> My question was more along the lines of his getting another dipstick
>> and
>>annealing it so it's not so brittle, and making sure the end is rounded so
>>it can move past any obstacle that may be catching it? It's what I would
>>do....at least once.
>>
>>"F.H." > wrote in message
>>news:ISmvd.6835$xa6.2758@trnddc09...
>>| EJB wrote:
>>| > I thought something along them lines, so I was keeping a close check
>>on
>>the
>>| > dipstick, I never seen any marking to indicate it was being hit, and I
>>never
>>| > felt any sort of vibrations coming through it when I would touch the
>>handle
>>| > end while the motor was running. As far as hitting a connecting rod
>>and
>>| > causing it to break the dipstick has always broken with the motor
>>turned
>>| > off. I would just be pushing it in and snap.
>>| > Very weird.
>>|
>>| A tool and die maker often design products with an indent in some area
>>| if they wish it to break during assembly or so it can be adjusted for
>>use.
>>|
>>| I suspect that the bottom of your dipstick (for whatever reason) is
>>| being torqued (bent but not broken) when in place. The constant
>>| pressure and changing temperatures weaken it until it just snaps. I
>>| would try polishing it (the replacement) till it shines, clean it with
>>| acetone and then color it with something very light (dykem would be
>>| ideal) and push it in and out while the engine is off, and cold. Then
>>| check for marks on the dipstick.
>>|
>>| Maybe you could adapt one of those later model dipsticks that are made
>>| of cable.
>>

>



 




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