Brakes

On a 2000 SL1 how do I know when I need to change my brake pads? Will
they make a sound?

"Matt" > wrote in message
...
> On a 2000 SL1 how do I know when I need to change my brake pads? Will
> they make a sound?

Some have screamer pads that make a sound, but you would or should know way
before then when you have the car in for an oil change or tire rotation have
them just peek at the brake pads and rotors.

There are other signs like pulsating pedal, pedals that go almost to the
floor, longer braking time etc.

Elector

On Fri, 26 Nov 2004 08:06:49 -0500, Matt > wrote:

>On a 2000 SL1 how do I know when I need to change my brake pads? Will
>they make a sound?


In My Humble Option:

Most accurate way is measure the amount of pad you have left. Many
shop manuals will give something like thickness in mm's, while some
shops will suggest replacement at 95% left. :-P

As for noise, the noise is generated when a scraper like device acts
like a tunning fork when it comes in contact with your rotor. The
idea is, any time you have bad noise from your brakes you will go to
the shop, and in this case it's just a pad replacement. Don't wait
till you get down to this scretching point, the device can mar the
rotor forcing you to the have to turn them. If you do your own breaks
you will know that you don't have to turn them every time you do a pad
replacement, it reduces your rotor life, and cost time and money.

BTW, any 'weirdness' in your brakes is an indicator that you need to
have them checked. Example: pulsation, softness, noise, etc....

hth,

tom @ www.CarFleaMarket.com

Elector,
I have a difference of opinion on your advice to Matt. You can have al-
most worn out on the pads and not get any of the "other signs" as the signs
are indeed symptoms of other problems. Pulsating pedal is one or both
rotors OR drums in the rear having too much runout. The pedal going low
is sometimes caused by your rear drums not self adjusting and needing lots
of fluid to move them far enough out to hit the drums. In the snow belt,
rusty adjusters can cause this or lack of adjusting (see PS below).

The "squealers" are not required; so there is no substitute for visual
examination
of the brakes. Most states require 2/32" for bonded for it to pass state
inspect-
ion. Most pads are bonded as opposed to rivets. This 2/32 (aka 1/16") is
"about" the thickness of a penny. You can't stick the penny in there; so you
have to visually compare. Pads with rivets should be replaced at about 5/32" or

so as the rivets will hit sooner than the metal backing of the pad.

chuck

ps: To adjust back brakes for cars w/ self adjusting drum brakes. Drive the car

in reverse and stop a few times. They are designed this way. The engineers
figure
that "in normal auto usage", everyone backs up from time to time.

Elector wrote:

> "Matt" > wrote in message
> ...
> > On a 2000 SL1 how do I know when I need to change my brake pads? Will
> > they make a sound?
>
> Some have screamer pads that make a sound, but you would or should know way
> before then when you have the car in for an oil change or tire rotation have
> them just peek at the brake pads and rotors.
>
> There are other signs like pulsating pedal, pedals that go almost to the
> floor, longer braking time etc.
>
> Elector

"chuck smoko" > wrote in message
...
> Elector,
> I have a difference of opinion on your advice to Matt. You can have
> al-
> most worn out on the pads and not get any of the "other signs" as
> the signs
> are indeed symptoms of other problems. Pulsating pedal is one or
> both
> rotors OR drums in the rear having too much runout. The pedal going
> low
> is sometimes caused by your rear drums not self adjusting and
> needing lots
> of fluid to move them far enough out to hit the drums. In the snow
> belt,
> rusty adjusters can cause this or lack of adjusting (see PS below).
>
> The "squealers" are not required; so there is no substitute for
> visual
> examination
> of the brakes. Most states require 2/32" for bonded for it to pass
> state
> inspect-
> ion. Most pads are bonded as opposed to rivets. This 2/32 (aka
> 1/16") is
> "about" the thickness of a penny. You can't stick the penny in
> there; so you
> have to visually compare. Pads with rivets should be replaced at
> about 5/32" or
>
> so as the rivets will hit sooner than the metal backing of the pad.
>
> chuck
>
> ps: To adjust back brakes for cars w/ self adjusting drum brakes.
> Drive the car
>
> in reverse and stop a few times. They are designed this way. The
> engineers
> figure
> that "in normal auto usage", everyone backs up from time to time.
>


Yes Chuck, that may also be the symptoms as you mention above for
other than bad brakes. But grasshopper all the symptoms you named are
brake problems none the less.

Your correct about the screamer pads (shims) not being required all
over, I always have the mechanic look at my brakes when ever they make
a noise out of the ordinary. (Dirty pads or rotors, stones caught in
the calipers, etc.) The back drum brakes are not used as hard as the
front brakes so you will find many times the backs last almost forever
while the front brakes need to be replaced every two years on some
cars and depending on driving habits.

Elector