subframe connector time for 04 vert

hello group - can anyone give me advice/recommendations on subframe
connectors purchase/install?

my current car has factory bolt-in boxed metal subframe connectors that look
like i could remove them and bend them with my hand. i noticed that ford
started installing these subframe connectors beginning with the 99 model
verts (and some coupes as well, such as the bullitt i believe). my 96 vert
, which incidentally had much less cowl shake than this car, had a strut
tower brace, but no subframe connectors. i read that ford redesigned the
firewall in 1998 and thus eliminated the need for the strut tower brace. i
say hogwash.

anyhoo, my theory is that if the factory installed these cheesy sfc's, then
a weld-in meatier version might be even better. can anyone confirm? also
what about these cons: welds can break after a while; it would make an
already heavy car even heavier; may make some of the fuel lines etc
inaccessable, etc.

i am leaning towards a maximum motorsport full length weld in sfc (not the
kind where you have to remove the carpeting), and then in the far future tie
a roll cage (also mm) into it with bolts.

thanks in advance for any feedback -

chris
04 cobra vert

Definitely go with full length weld-in subframe connectors. I will be
buying some global west ones pretty soon, but I believe the maximum
motorsports ones are very similar. Good luck.
Erik D.
'94 white lightning
'01 white GT

The stock SFC's suck. Weld-in SFC's are a must. Full length are the
best and I like the MM products, myself.

If this is a street car, and the welds break, beat your installer with
the SFC...savagely. It shouldn't happen. If this is a serious race car,
just beat your installer lightly .

The difference in terms of weight is negligable. Probably about 10 lbs
and the value of the increased stiffness in the chassis far exceeds the
hit caused by the extra weight.

Most full length SFC's will interfere with nothing under the car.
Something like the Kenny Brown Extreme Matrix with it's jacking rails
might do this. Note, though, that the MM SFC's are sturdy enough to be
used as jacking rails .

"MM" ? I've been looking at a total control system sfcs and X for my
65 FB

On 11 Dec 2004 22:11:11 -0800, "Dan" > wrote:

>The stock SFC's suck. Weld-in SFC's are a must. Full length are the
>best and I like the MM products, myself.
>
>If this is a street car, and the welds break, beat your installer with
>the SFC...savagely. It shouldn't happen. If this is a serious race car,
>just beat your installer lightly .
>
>The difference in terms of weight is negligable. Probably about 10 lbs
>and the value of the increased stiffness in the chassis far exceeds the
>hit caused by the extra weight.
>
>Most full length SFC's will interfere with nothing under the car.
>Something like the Kenny Brown Extreme Matrix with it's jacking rails
>might do this. Note, though, that the MM SFC's are sturdy enough to be
>used as jacking rails .

Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

MM = Maximum Motorsports

Like... DUH!!! j/k, I didn't know either ;D.

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo)
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"Dan" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> MM = Maximum Motorsports
>

Thanks, Dan... The earlier post was as clear as mud but it covered the
ground... this one sure cleared it up for me.... ; )

On 12 Dec 2004 21:47:00 -0800, "Dan" > wrote:

>MM = Maximum Motorsports

Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16