Hello,

Thanks again for your comments and time. Could I add some more to this
thread ? I'm not a knowledgeable mechanic, but I try to understand and
learn. And the problem is worsening with driving the car.

I found spark plugs dirty just above the metal body, brownish. Also the gap
is a tiny bit too narrow. I will have the electrical system checked.

I checked my valves, following all of the uncertainty about it. I just seem
to find that 5 valves are too tight , 3 inlet valves on cylinders 2,3,4 ,
and 2 outlet valves on cylinder 1,2. That is, normally, overall the valve
lash values are ALL 5/100mm too low

The table is underneath, for those who are interested.

They could (have) overheat(ed) . On the other hand, compression is still
high ( 15 bars + ) so they are not leaking ?

< Do a dry compression test and then a "wet"
<compression whereby you put abot a tablespoon of oil
<directly into the cylinder theu the spark plug hole. The
<pressures will increase a small amout because of the
<presence of the oil which has the effect of sealing the
<rings. If a cylinder increases a lot when wet, you likely
<have a piston/ring wear problem. If the pressure increases
<<uniformly with the high/low spread remaing acceptable, then,
<you have no problem. You must look elsewhere. If the
<pressure does not increase, that would likely be a result of
<leaking valves

Compression is very high ( 16 bars + ) on this engine cold with closed
throttle. I fear I will find compression will drop on a hot engine, due to
valve problems. Probably this method will prove it ?

If carbonisation is present, could it have occurred when excess oil was
filled at a minor servicing ( oil and filter change ) ? It had about 1.5
liter too much oil. It was taken out after 200 mi. Afterwards I lost 0.75
liter oil on 600 mi. Maybe this was the start of all events ?

If there would be oil consumption, would that lead to the ECU lowering fuel
input under a level which is necessary for good mixture ? I tend to think
oil is seeping through the oil rings of the pistons.

Sorry for the newbie questions, but I have not found a mechanic who would go
and search for my problems. For all of the things I experience, I hope to
find what 's going on, with the help of this group.

Thank you all again,

Carl

================================================== ==================
Following table sums up my feeler results ( I hope noone finds this
ridiculous or thinks I'm a freak, I just found the presentation clear and
representave, and helpful for knowing which values you are measuring AND
checking them again. in excel it is a nice coloured overview but this is too
elaborate a system to use routinely )

cam and crank are the positions, "i" is inlet valve opened, "o" is outlet
valve opened
the upper row are the inlet valves, "n" and "c" are non measured positions
( erroneous) ,
"xx n xx" are feeler values for two valves on a position where valves are
closed and neutral
"xx c xx" are the same for a position halfway the closed period for checking
valve lash

cam crank 4 3 2 1
------------------------------------------------
225° 0° i i 7n10 10n10
o 15n15 o 12n15
------------------------------------------------
270° 90° i 10n7 7n10 10c10
15n15 15c15 o n
------------------------------------------------
315° 180° i 10n7 i n
15n15 12n12 o o
------------------------------------------------
0° 270° n 10c7 i 10n10
15c15 15n15 n o
------------------------------------------------
45° 360° 7n10 10n7 i i
15n15 o 12n15 o
------------------------------------------------
90° 450° 7c10 10n7 i i
15n15 o 12c15 12n15
------------------------------------------------
135° 540° 7n10 i 7n10 i
o o 12n15 n
------------------------------------------------
180° 630° 7n10 i 7c10 10n10
o 13n13 12n15 12c15
------------------------------------------------