Thread: stripped torx
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  #18  
Old May 25th 05, 02:03 PM
Mike Romain
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In my experience, the paint must bubble before the thread sealer will
let go. I have tried a few times to 'save the paint' with no success at
all.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve wrote:
>
> As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx bit
> and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt?
> how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen?
>
> "Dana Rohleder" > wrote in message
> ...
> > How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the
> > soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was
> > a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere
> > that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like
> > 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just
> > gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take
> > the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here
> > when it gets below zero!
> > --
> > Dana
> >
> > --
> > 93 YJ
> > 90 XJ Ltd.
> > ---------------
> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> > 82 Cherokee
> > 76 Cherokee
> >
> >
> > "mic canic" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with
> >> the
> >> matching extractors but when push comes to shove
> >> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out
> >> carefully
> >> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what
> >> it
> >> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat
> >> to
> >> release the lock tight it will come out
> >>
> >> "L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:
> >>
> >>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On.
> >>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>> http://www.billhughes.com/
> >>>
> >>> Dana Rohleder wrote:
> >>> >
> >>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I
> >>> > tried
> >>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx
> >>> > sockets
> >>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later,
> >>> > I gave
> >>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any
> >>> > heads,
> >>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread
> >>> > sealer is
> >>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't
> >>> > know how
> >>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or
> >>> > gun
> >>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may
> >>> > want to
> >>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it.
> >>> >
> >>> > Dana
> >>> > 93 YJ
> >>> > 90 XJ Ltd.
> >>> > ---------------
> >>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> >>> > 82 Cherokee
> >>> > 76 Cherokee
> >>> >
> >>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us
> >>> > and
> >>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005
> >>> > "diablo" > wrote in message
> >>> > ...
> >>> > > Hi Guys,
> >>> > >
> >>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have
> >>> > > a
> >>> > > quick
> >>> > > fix or two.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ
> >>> > > with
> >>> > > SS
> >>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them
> >>> > > all
> >>> > > back
> >>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to
> >>> > > take
> >>> > > the
> >>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft.
> >>> > > obviously i'm
> >>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so...
> >>> > >
> >>> > > any suggestions would be great.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > Steve
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >>

> >
> >

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