Dean wrote:
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Well, it's actually the other way around on joints for price. The
> > cheapest ones you can find are the best. They come with grease nipples
> > so you can pump the water and mud out of them after a run.
> >
> > The expensive, 'heavy duty', lifetime warranty', no grease joints are
> > total garbage!!!
>
> I can understand what you are saying, but after taking a quick look at
> the lower ball joint I don't see where you could get a grease nipple in
> there. It seems like there isn't enough room. (well maybe)

Umm, the nipple goes bottom dead center on the bottom one and my new top
one has a bottom dead center one with a 90 deg nipple or zirk pointing
out sideways. It also came with a plug to use if the u-joint is too
close. You move the u-joint by spinning the wheel in your case so you
have room and open it up to grease.

One of my front axle u-joints also has zirks in the end caps with plugs
to use.

>
> > You have no serviceable hub bearings, the hub is another one of those
> > 'sealed units'.
>
> How does one tell if the hub bearings are good or bad?

I jack up the wheel and just shake the tire. If a bearing is bad, you
will have a tire wobble when you do this. Another telltale is if the
first time you hit the brakes, the pedal is low, then the pedal comes up
normal on the second pump.

If the bearing is bad, it will push the brake caliper piston back in
from the rotor wobble.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
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