Well, it's actually the other way around on joints for price. The
cheapest ones you can find are the best. They come with grease nipples
so you can pump the water and mud out of them after a run.

The expensive, 'heavy duty', lifetime warranty', no grease joints are
total garbage!!!

I too thought I would be 'smart' and go with the 'best' or most
expensive ones. I have been regretting it ever since. They started
blowing out from water contamination after only 8 months!

I have had to replace 'every' one. I now only have one or maybe two
left in her and one of those is toast, a bottom ball joint.

I hear from others here that the sealed joints do work...., if you live
in the desert and it never sees water or snow...

Once you have the ball joints apart, I would recommend you examine the
axle u-joints carefully. It is a pile of work to get to them, so while
it's open. Same for the diff seals. I would be looking into the axle
tubes with a light for evidence of oil. The tube should be dry because
the seals are inboard.

You have no serviceable hub bearings, the hub is another one of those
'sealed units'.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Dean wrote:
>
> My TJ's got about 60+ K miles on it, many of them off road and it
> looks, sounds, and feels like the ball joints are shot. When I replace
> them what else should I replace? The tire rod ends are beat, so they
> will be replaced, but what about hub bearings, u-joints, or anything
> inside the differential?
>
> And are there any brand name recommendations? I don't want to spend
> my time doing this and then have to do it again because I skimped on
> parts. A few extra bucks on top quality parts isn't going to break
> the bank and might save me some time in the future.
>
> Tia
> Dean