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Old April 11th 06, 03:03 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
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Default Noisy brakes on 1996 Chrysler T&C with ABS


"Ken Weitzel" > wrote in message
news:sEx_f.14509$gO.7445@pd7tw3no...
>
>
> D. Dean via CarKB.com wrote:
> > Ken,
> > Thanks for letting me know about your brake problem. I'm of the opinion

that
> > it might be wise to replace the rear brakes. The only thing I'm

wondering is
> > could it be something wrong in the ABS?
> >
> > Don

>
> Hi Don...
>
> I stand ready to be corrected by the mechanics here, but I
> suspect that your abs is working fine... proving it every
> time you've stopped lately
>
> Willing to bet you a dollar to a doughnut that you have
> exactly the same problem I had, with the only difference
> being that the old Olds had no abs.
>
> So - everytime I braked the wheel locked up solid; whereas your
> abs is preventing lock up. Then the abs releasing the brakes
> causes the whump sound everytime it applies/releases, and the
> jiggle you're feeling in the pedal is just normal for the abs.
>
> If dollars are a little tight, and/or service is far away,
> it was pretty easy to change (rebuild) the wheel cylinder.
> Toughest part of changing it is getting the old fitting off
> (you need the correct wrenches). Then naturally you have to
> bleed the brakes. Rebuilding would be even easier, though you'd
> have to get ahold of a hone.
>
> And once more, I'm absolutely convinced that you have to change
> the pads. Once they're contaminated there just ain't no
> amount of cleaning and sanding that will save them permanently.
>



You got to be really careful when changing calipers or wheel cylinders on
a car with ABS. If you allow too much air into the brake lines, and the air
gets up into the ABS controller valves, you can NOT bleed them yourself, it
must
be done with a scan tool. (and not a $199 cheapie, either)

I would try having an assistant sitting in the car, loosen the brake line
just a bit,
then get all the bolts and such out, then quickly undo the brake line and
then
slap the new cylinder in, then quickly tighten the line and then have the
assistant
start pressing the petal and get the bleed cycle going. And make sure the
master cylinder is full, if it sucks air, your screwed.

I've never bothered rebuilding wheel cylinders, the cost of new ones is
cheap
enough to just go new.

Ted



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