Ryan Underwood wrote:
> Hi,
> We are getting a new rebuilt head and head bolts for the 90 Accord EX (16V
> SOHC) with 200k as soon as we confirm a burned valve on the old one. What is
> the recommended head gasket for this application, aftermarket or OEM?

oem.

> And
> what, if anything, should be done to the (aluminum) block to ensure a good seal
> besides thoroughly cleaning the old gasket off? The head rebuilder has
> recommended NOT to retorque the head bolts after 500mi or sand any surface
> pattern into the deck, as seem to be common wisdom depending on who you talk
> to.

as the head builder says, clean the surfaces only. any scratching can
lead to leakage over time. new oem heads are mirror finished.

>
> Is there anything else important to replace along with the head besides the
> timing belt, water pump, and all associated gaskets that would be hard to get
> to later? Example: any known problems with the front crank seal, oil pump, or
> timing belt tensioner?

seals & tensioners are good.

>
> History: The Accord always ran great, with some valve noise when cold due to
> owner neglecting oil changes, until one day there was zero compression in #1.
> No noise at all, just has no power. The car overheated once about five years
> ago due to a leaking hose, but nothing bad seems to have come of that luckily.
> Since it is aluminum, the deck will be checked for true before proceeding.

that noise is not due to neglect. it's just a fact of life and to some
extent, a function of the oil you're using. fortunately, a burnt valve
is /no/ reflection on the wear status of the rest of the engine.

>
> Appreciate any comments good or bad. Don't want to let a $400+weekend job get
> out of hand.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
i'd be scrupulous about cleanliness for the block. new rings and seals
are debatable at this mileage, but if it was good before and was not
burning oil, personally i'd leave them. rebuilds usually fail in 1/3 or
less time than the original build. analysis shows this is almost always
due to microscopic abrasive contamination left on the cylinder wall
after re-honing. if you can avoid doing that [and you /must/ hone if
you re-ring] you could continue to get good service from this engine.
caveat: "conventional wisdom" is strip, hone, ring, etc. but the fact
remains that rebuilds don't last and for the reasons i've stated. i
would not follow my own advice in a shop environment because i cannot be
"negligent" for following conventional practice, but if it were my own
car, and i /knew/ the block was good, sure i'd leave it as is.