The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe wrench like a
regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of the cone
(away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench to grab
that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get pretty
messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an oil
filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.

I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be bolted to
the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is sufficient. I
don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the holes to hold
it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole seems like
excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very humid.

/Peter

"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
> Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How about a
> plumbers pipe wrench?
>
> I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the socket
> fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under it while
> still being able to turn.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Mike
>
> Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> >
> > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so my wife
isn't
> > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to fab up this
> > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of 1/4" x 1
1/2"
> > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient, or should
I
> > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the one in the
> > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
driveshaft to
> > this yoke ...
> >
> > /Peter
> >
> > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if you don't
> > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of steel up with
a
> > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the pinion to hold
it
> > > steady while tightening.
> > >
> > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and other kinds
> > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did mine wrong
> > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real' machine shop!
> > >
> > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you cannot do the
> > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If you do, you
> > > fast have a dead box.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the pinion gear
from
> > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for that.
This is
> > a
> > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for a wrench
of
> > any
> > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM for holding
the
> > > > yoke.
> > > >
> > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers, hubs, and
axle
> > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back on to
tighten
> > the
> > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's right?
> > > >
> > > > /Peter
> > > >
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
> > > > ...
> > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't bottomed out as
the
> > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was up
against
> > the
> > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch pounds without
> > axles,
> > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue Loc-Tite
then.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and tighten the
nut to
> > 160
> > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and turned the
> > pinion
> > > > with
> > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so it needs to
be
> > > > tighter.
> > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard to tell
> > what's
> > > > lash
> > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a helper
with
> > > > stronger
> > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake pedal
hard
> > enough
> > > > to
> > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion nut.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
> > > > > > ...
> > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that have
loosened.
> > If
> > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have is not
sliding
> > up
> > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did, as the
crush
> > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between them. Have you
hit
> > it
> > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful in
feeling
> > with
> > > > the
> > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but it's been
re-used
> > a
> > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite on it? Red
or
> > Blue?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > /Peter