"dave AKA vwdoc11" wrote:
> WELL go out and check right now!!! lol
> Just kidding. ;-)
>
> let us know what you find and take your time checking the
> timing belt.
> later,
> dave
> (One out of many daves)
>
> "dubljay" > wrote in message
> news:1_588056_610d449ab147b0eddadf802893e59007@aut oforumz.com...
> >I think you may be on to something with this. When I
> purchased the
> > car I found a service manual (cover looks similar to that of
> a Bently)
> > in the trunk. In the manual were print outs of another
> manual
> > concerning the installation of a timing belt. These prints
> were in
> > the same section in the maunal. I have a feeling that the
> timing belt
> > was replaced. I didn't even think to check to see if it was
> installed
> > correctly, I figured if I hadn't been the car wouldn't have
> run at
> > all.

OK, I really don’t know what to think now. I checked the timing
belt.. and it couldn’t be more perfectly alligned. So now that is
ruled out. I double checked the fault codes for the Digifant I
computer, (bridged the two connectors under the shift cover and check
engine light blinked for the codes). got 4 4 4 4, no fualts. When
poking around the distributor I broke the Hall sending unit... I
replaced the whole distributor with a used one, Hall sending unit and
all. Set the timing as per Bently. End result even less power. Now
the damn thing drives like the hand break is on. With the accelerator
to the floor in first gear I hit about 5500 rpm and about 25 mph.
When I let off the accelerator or down shift it sounds like it is
backfiring in the intake. There is no problem with starting, there
is an intermitent surging at idle, of about +/-300 RPM (which was also
a problem before replacing the distributor and hall sending unit).
What in the hell do I do now? The plugs, wires, rotor, cap all seem to
be fine... should I replace them anyway? Could the computer itself be
toast and still give no fault readings? Could there be bad wiring
between sensors and the computer allowing for a no fault reading? I
checked the torque on the knock sensor mounting bolt, and reset it to
13 ft-lbs. I have the sinking sus****ion that this is not the
original engine for the vehicle, I double checked to make sure that it
was indeed an RV engine, which it is. If it is not the original
engine would that cause a problem for the Digifant I computer? Is
there anyway to tell if the engine is indeed the original one or if it
is a replacement?

Thanks for the help

-Josh

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