"Plowboy" > wrote in message
news:Vcone.26766$iU.17531@lakeread05...
> Jijang...
>
> Seriously, you might need to investigate about the wheel just a bit. I
had
> a ThrustMaster wheel, actually I had about 9 of them via sending them in
> under warranty and all the newer versions I tried back when...
>
> The output from the wheel needs to be smooth. now when you calibrate,
> if you just go in there willy nilly or without reguard to what is
happening,
> you may not notice, but the 'computer' and game will... Not sure how much
> you might 'get' about what I am saying, so le me see if I can simplify
this.
>
> When the wheel is at rest (lets agree it is centered) the value being
> expressed to the PC, is variable depending on specs, so let say it is
> showing the computer that it's reading a 100, as you turn the wheel to the
> left, it goes up in good wheels 101, 102, 103... on lesser good it can be
> 110, 120, 130 etc, up to 200 maybe. to the right it goes down
accordingly
> and equally for each 'degree of movement'.
>
> But my thrust-crapper wheel inviariably sent this to the pc, as I
slowly
> turned the wheel to the left for example... 101, 102, 50, 90 105, 110,
120,
> 190. thus the game thought I was turning left ever so slightly then wildly
> hard right, then wildly back to left, even though I was NOT. Being the
good
> sim, wanting to give my inputs to the simulated car, that kindof
readings...
> was causing great spins in anything above arcade games like MTM and crap
> like NFS...
>
> Anyway, sometimes this is just dirty or bad POTS (potentiometers). If you
> dont know what I mean by POT, think volume, balance, or tuning knob on
older
> radios... as you turn the volume knob the resistance that is read slowly
> and linearily increases or decreases, as such the circuits in the radio
> respond in kind with volume, balance or tuning is reflected... if the
> volume nob for example is dirty or 'bad' you get that 'static' crackly
sound
> as you turn the knob, that crap can happen in wheels, your game (& PC) try
> to determine what you did, usually wrecking you or sometimes ignoring you
> depending on the game or SW & drivers...
>
> Finally, I got a new & different wheel back then, all of a sudden GPL,
> nascar, and everything was drivable... many here like the Logitech's
> offerings, the Driving Force Pro wheels, the Momo wheels are ok too i have
> read, the driving force's I hear are cool, as they work with PC as well as
> PS2 I hear... I would recomend one like mine, but they arent made anymore
> MS-sidewinder FF v2 [red grip version]. plus you add the fact XP doesnt
> really do anything but do 'legacy' (meaning limited) support of the good
old
> gameports.. so that, if XP's your OS, could be another hurdle to get
over?
>
I think I know what you're talking about. I have a Thrustmaster Nascar
Charger (non usb) that twitches a lot even if I don't apply steering input.
I'll look into getting something else. Thanks for the post.