i would check out the circuit before cutting and adding resistors and
regulators, try to keep eveything working the way it was designed, many a
times i have found the 8 way connectors loose/corroded causing a no charge
condition. just a simple back probe test to the PCM
"exxos" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Jon G." > wrote in message
> nk.net...
> >I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
> >battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
nothing
> >wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't charge. I
> >checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery, and there
is
> >continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.
> >
> > there are 4 connections on the alternator
> >
> > L1: direct to battery, positive
> > L2: direct to battery, negative
> > c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
> > c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.
> >
> > I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an external
> > voltage regulator.
> >
> > What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2 be to
do
> > so?
> >
> > I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and adjust it
> > until the alternator kicks on.
> >
> > The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in the
> > alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)
>
>
> I had a problem with one of my cars in the past with the alternator not
> charging, what this turned out to be was the ground pin on the regulator
was
> going via a lamp on the dashboard, thus giveing a slight volt raise on the
> ground so you got maybe 13V from the 12V regulator, though it took me a
long
> time to work out why my battery wouldn't charge, turns out the bulb went
on
> the dashboard, no ground on the regulator, alternator didn't charge the
> battery, thus car wouldn't start.... strange how a small item such as a
> dashboard light can stop the car from starting ;-)
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
>