You could cut out the bad area, and some distance on either side, and
replace it with a new piece of steel tubing. However, in order to do it
properly, you will have to double flare the cut ends and use a new piece of
tubing also double flared, and connect them together with fittings. Do not
use compression fittings. This would be unsafe. It might be easier just to
replace the whole thing if you don't have the double flaring tool.
Ron

> wrote in message
ups.com...
>I recently (today) bought a 1994 Eddie Bauer with 152,000 miles on it.
> The vehicle looks good, and runs well. Unfortunately, after about 40
> miles of driving it around town while slowing for a stop-sign, the
> brake-pedal suddenly hit the floor. The backup system worked as
> expected though, and I didn't rearend the old lady ahead of me.
>
> My problem is a pin-hole leak in the steel-pipe on the left side of the
> chassis that connects to the rubber-tube which goes into the rear-brake
> manifold. It looks like the area on the pipe is a good candidate for
> standing-water corrosion, and I'm somewhat releived that the damage is
> reletively minor and "easily" accessible (a bitch to get at, but it's
> highly visible). I attempted to seal it with some rubber and a
> pipe-clamp, but the braking-pressure is much too high for this method
> to work, and when I brake, the fluid just ****es out the sides.
>
> Is this piping weldable? Is there a different clamping technique I
> could use? Is a replacement pipe available, and is it easily
> installable?
>
> Thanks,
> John
>