don't take the word of the special "internet only" sales people at the
brick and mortar dealership that they are giving you a good price.
Everytime I have tried this, they have given me a worse price than just
the casual price quote I got in person in two minutes. (I always start
my shoping by just picking up a brochure in the dealership, people there
almost insist that you let them give you a price even though they know
you just want to go over some catalogs).

Know your numbers, know exactly what options you want, figure out
exactly what you want to pay then say the magic words, "you can sell
this car right now for $$$$$" In fact don't even go to the dealership.
I staple the guy's card to the brochure right in front of them and
unless he/she has been very rude I always call them back and make an
offer. If they try to tell you your price is unreasonable, politely
thank them and say good bye. If they try to engage you longer tell them
that $$$ price is going to be offered to the other Honda shop (say the
name). Remember you have all the time in the world.

Now, in the above, you need to buy without a tradand the price does have
to be realistic. I would think 2% over invoice or $500 whichever is
greater would be in the ballpark as someone said. Find the invoce a t
KBB.com

As far as a trade in, it's a pain to deal with. But if you must, just
ask for the price both ways outright and with a trade. It wont be any
better but at least yo will then know iexactly what they are valuing
your car at. By the way, the best deal in the world can be the worst
if they nail you on the finance charges. If financing go get pre
approved at your credit bureau, their rates are usually cheaper and the
teaser rates at the dealer can usually be substitued for a cash
allowance although we are talking Hondas and i don't recall seeing any
subsidized interest rates in the papers.

Working the trade in, the only thing you can do is take the car to
several dealerships and ask for a price on exactly the same deal, IE the
same new car with the same options. I have never gotton a good trade in
offer at the dealer yet.

And if you do sell your car privately, be realistic when you set the
price. You are not a dealer, you didn';t recondition it and you don';t
warranty it, so unless it is an amazing vehicle you should be asking
somewhere around trade in value.

One last tip, you must pay the freight charge, no one discounts it and
make sure iti s included in the price, ie, the quote should be for the
"full delivered price". Also, very important make sure any "document
fees" are included. in MA Herb Chambers loves to give you a price and
then later tack on a $200 document fee. In RI the document fee was
limited to $25. by law (I think they accidentally let it expire,
though).

I HATE BUYING CARS.

best of luck. let us know how it works out.

Elle wrote:

> Keep the 2001. Drive it into the ground. This will give you
> by far the greatest bang for the buck.
>
> "Enrique Gonzales" > wrote
> >I will be purchasing a new Accord EX very soon and trading
> >in my 2001
> > Accord EX. How do I go about getting the best price on
> > the new car.
> > Also, how do I get the best price on my trade in? Thanks.