I have one 10SI here that I have had up to 220 with a good cooling fan
on it. The field windings will take it but the stator starts to get REAL
hot if you don't push some air through the housing. The older 10 series
can do a bit more but the slip rings start to arc. if you really want to
play with one find one of the older Leese Neville units from a heavy
truck. Those can really crank out some power. 300 amps plus and 120 AC
is child's play with them. Take a look at many ambulances and they are
under the hood powering the hotel load. They are BIG and HEAVY though.

--
Steve W.

"ArchTaib" > wrote in message
news:7Rqre.1669146$8l.873142@pd7tw1no...
> i meant AC, hehe sorry but i didn't know that it could be more.
>
> so far we seem to be in agreement on the usage of an alternator...
it's been
> an informative post for all, i hope =)
>
>
>
> "Steve W." > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > "ArchTaib" > wrote in message
> > news:z6pre.1668561$8l.1200624@pd7tw1no...
> >> what's there to turn up? everything there makes sense.. i think.
> > battery
> >> provides power to the car, alternator keeps batter charged, voltage
> >> regualtor keeps the power output in check, and there will be a
sensor
> > there
> >> somewhere to signal the guage on the dash what to display. the
only
> > thing
> >> that doesn't make sense is the term 'generator'.. i'm not sure why
a
> > shop
> >> manual would call it that, that's not what an alternator does. an
> > generator
> >> is a simple device, really.. and incredibly inneficient and weak.
i
> > don't
> >> think they have used generators in cars in more than 25 years.
> >>
> >> an alternator, on the other hand, is immeasurably more efficient
when
> >> compared to a generator, has slip rings instead of commutators, and
> > produces
> >> up to 120 volts DC via a voltage regulator and state regualtor.
> >
> > Actually the alternator can produce much more than 120 volts AC. DC
is
> > what you get after that AC is run through the rectifier diodes
inside
> > the alternator. The regulator uses a remote sensing wire to keep the
> > voltage in the vehicle at 13.8-14 volts. That remote wire is used to
> > counteract the voltage drop that occurs through the long wire runs
and
> > multiple connections in the wiring harness. That is why you will
usually
> > find low voltage in vehicles that use a one wire alternator instead
of a
> > conventional 3 wire. The voltage lost in the wiring can be 1-1.5
volts
> > depending on length of the run.
> >
> >
> >>
> >> ">>measure voltage at battery >>if its 14.5 or more the regualtor
is
> >> ocked" --true.. but the regualtor is part of the alternator.
> > thusly, the
> >> alternator is "focked"
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> > wrote in message
> >> ...
> >> > On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 19:32:46 GMT, wrote:
> >> >
> >> >>On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 08:46:07 GMT, "ironrod"
>
> >> >>wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >>>An alternator is capable of producing more voltage than your
> > battery is
> >> >>>capable of handing. The regulator works by limiting the output.
> > The
> >> >>>last
> >> >>>time my brushes went the problem manifested itself by maxing out
> > the
> >> >>>voltmeter. Another place to look is at the alternator sense
line,
> > if it
> >> >>>is
> >> >>>not hooked up correctly it could be signaling for max output.
> >> >>>
> >> >>
> >> >>lmfao
> >> >>
> >> >>alternator sense line
> >> >>LMFAO
> >> >>what a moron
> >> >>its called regulated voltage ya FOCTARD
> >> >>measure voltage at battery
> >> >>if its 14.5 or more the regualtor is focked
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>ford does not have an alternator
> >> >>the shop manual call s the generators
> >> >>
> >> >>get some certification
> >> >>
> >> >>LMFAO
> >> >>h
> >> >>u
> >> >>r
> >> >>c
> >> >>a
> >> >>s
> >> >>t
> >> >
> >> > lets turn this up a notch
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
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