Try a large truck or bus garage.


"Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
...
> Well, I did both, I tightened the pinion nut a bit beyond 250 using a
> breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough.
> It
> wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving
> at
> highway speeds too.
>
> Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
> superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
> this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
> they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
> ft-lbs either.
>
> /Peter
>
> "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
> ...
>> Hmm. A conundrum has surfaced. I've incrementally increased the torque on
>> the pinion nut a few times to the maximum of 250 ft-lbs my torque wrench
>> will do. The preload has increased, i can feel more resistance to
>> turning,
>> but I can still turn the pinion nut with my in-lbs torque wrench set to
> it's
>> minimum of 25 in-lbs without it clicking.
>>
>> What do I do? Crank on the pinion nut with a breaker bar and hope I don't
> go
>> to far, or put it all back together and hope the preload is enough as-is?
>>
>> /Peter
>>
>> "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > That is the idea Peter. It can take up to 500 ft lb to set that sucker
>> > according to the book I have. I was always told to go at least to 300,
>> > but as mentioned, I have never done one.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> >
>> > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Disregard what, exactly? The bit about the air impact wrench? Seeing
> as
>> I
>> > > don't have one, that won't be a problem ;-)
>> > >
>> > > Actually, someone mentioned somewhere in this thread that using
> anything
>> > > further sown the drivetrain to hold the pinion from turning wouldn't
>> work.
>> > > Now that I've played around with it a bit more, I can see - or should
> I
>> say
>> > > feel - how the gear teeth would cause the pinion to "walk" a bit,
>> thowing
>> > > things off. I think the only way to do this properly is to have
>> something to
>> > > hold the yoke itself, which is what I've done. I've reinstalled it
> using
>> red
>> > > Loc-Tite on the nut, snugged it up to 160 ft-lbs, and removed my yoke
>> > > grabber. The axle shafts are removed, and it's taking way less torque
>> than
>> > > my inch-lbs torque wrench can measure to turn the pinion.
>> > >
>> > > So, just to make sure, what I should be doing now is increasing the
>> torque
>> > > on the pinion yoke nut incrementally until it takes 30 inch-lbs or so
> to
>> > > turn the pinion?
>> > >
>> > > /Peter
>> > >
>> > > "Earle Horton" > wrote in message
>> > > news:1121699291.1230ba0de444f436447964b5ba854b66@t eranews...
>> > > > Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I
>> have
>> > > more
>> > > > experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
>> > > >
>> > > > Earle
>> > > >
>> > > > "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
>> > > > ...
>> > > > > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe
> wrench
>> like
>> > > a
>> > > > > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of
>> the
>> > > cone
>> > > > > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe
>> > > > > wrench
>> to
>> > > grab
>> > > > > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get
>> pretty
>> > > > > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that
>> > > > > an
>> oil
>> > > > > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can
>> > > > > be
>> > > bolted
>> > > > to
>> > > > > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is
>> > > sufficient.
>> > > > I
>> > > > > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the
> holes
>> to
>> > > > hold
>> > > > > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole
> seems
>> > > like
>> > > > > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very
>> humid.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > /Peter
>> > > > >
>> > > > > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
>> > > > > ...
>> > > > > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How
> about
>> a
>> > > > > > plumbers pipe wrench?
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the
>> socket
>> > > > > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under
> it
>> > > while
>> > > > > > still being able to turn.
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > Good luck.
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > Mike
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so
> my
>> wife
>> > > > > isn't
>> > > > > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to
> fab
>> up
>> > > > this
>> > > > > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of
> 1/4"
>> x 1
>> > > > > 1/2"
>> > > > > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be
>> > > > > > > sufficient,
>> or
>> > > > should
>> > > > > I
>> > > > > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the
> one
>> in
>> > > the
>> > > > > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding
>> > > > > > > the
>> > > > > driveshaft to
>> > > > > > > this yoke ...
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > /Peter
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
>> > > > > > > ...
>> > > > > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right
>> > > > > > > > if
>> you
>> > > > don't
>> > > > > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of
> steel
>> up
>> > > > with
>> > > > > a
>> > > > > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the
> pinion
>> to
>> > > > hold
>> > > > > it
>> > > > > > > > steady while tightening.
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and
>> other
>> > > > kinds
>> > > > > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did
> mine
>> > > wrong
>> > > > > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real'
> machine
>> > > shop!
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you
> cannot
>> do
>> > > the
>> > > > > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If
> you
>> do,
>> > > > you
>> > > > > > > > fast have a dead box.
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > Mike
>> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in
> '00
>> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the
>> pinion
>> > > gear
>> > > > > from
>> > > > > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes
>> > > > > > > > > for
>> that.
>> > > > > This is
>> > > > > > > a
>> > > > > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots
>> > > > > > > > > for
> a
>> > > > wrench
>> > > > > of
>> > > > > > > any
>> > > > > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM
> for
>> > > > holding
>> > > > > the
>> > > > > > > > > yoke.
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers,
>> hubs,
>> > > and
>> > > > > axle
>> > > > > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back
> on
>> to
>> > > > > tighten
>> > > > > > > the
>> > > > > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's
>> right?
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > /Peter
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in
>> message
>> > > > > > > > > ...
>> > > > > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't
> bottomed
>> out
>> > > as
>> > > > > the
>> > > > > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one
>> > > > > > > > > > was
>> up
>> > > > > against
>> > > > > > > the
>> > > > > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch
> pounds
>> > > > without
>> > > > > > > axles,
>> > > > > > > > > > for pinion test.
>> > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> > > > > > > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/
>> > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>> > > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue
>> Loc-Tite
>> > > > > then.
>> > > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and
>> tighten
>> > > the
>> > > > > nut to
>> > > > > > > 160
>> > > > > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and
>> turned
>> > > > the
>> > > > > > > pinion
>> > > > > > > > > with
>> > > > > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so
> it
>> > > needs
>> > > > to
>> > > > > be
>> > > > > > > > > tighter.
>> > > > > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its
>> > > > > > > > > > > hard
>> to
>> > > tell
>> > > > > > > what's
>> > > > > > > > > lash
>> > > > > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a
>> helper
>> > > > > with
>> > > > > > > > > stronger
>> > > > > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the
>> > > > > > > > > > > brake
>> pedal
>> > > > > hard
>> > > > > > > enough
>> > > > > > > > > to
>> > > > > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion
>> nut.
>> > > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
>> > > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote
>> > > > > > > > > > > in
>> > > message
>> > > > > > > > > > > ...
>> > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
>> > > > > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that
>> have
>> > > > > loosened.
>> > > > > > > If
>> > > > > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have
> is
>> not
>> > > > > sliding
>> > > > > > > up
>> > > > > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did,
> as
>> the
>> > > > > crush
>> > > > > > > > > sleeve
>> > > > > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between
> them.
>> Have
>> > > > you
>> > > > > hit
>> > > > > > > it
>> > > > > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being
>> > > > > > > > > > > > careful
>> in
>> > > > > feeling
>> > > > > > > with
>> > > > > > > > > the
>> > > > > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
>> > > > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> > > > > > > > > > > >
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>> > > > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>> > > > > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but
> it's
>> been
>> > > > > re-used
>> > > > > > > a
>> > > > > > > > > > > couple of
>> > > > > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite
> on
>> it?
>> > > > Red
>> > > > > or
>> > > > > > > Blue?
>> > > > > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>>
>>
>
>