On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 19:35:12 -0500, Philip Nasadowski
> wrote:

>Start by replacing the coolant temp sensor in the head. This is
>generally the cause of poor cold starting.
>
>Note your idle speed when the car starts and runs. I bet it's high,
>like over 1,000 rpm. That's a hint the CTS is bad - it also regulates

Typically any time I start the car, it's intial idle is over 1000rpm
for the first few mins. Isn't this normal?

>idle speed - the hotter the car, the lower. If the car thinks it's warm
>or hot, the mixture leans out. Not good for cold starting.
>
>You're not saying where you are or what very very cold or very very hot
>is, but if you have normal weather most of the time, you might not

Now Pennsylvania.

>noticed this and itcan go on a long time - this won't throw up a trouble
>code if the sensor is somewhat working.
>

A few years ago, I pushed for a real check on the system and I was
told a temp switch was 'out of band' but wasn't causing any codes.
They replaced it at my request, and the car ran very well for a long
time. Now we are getting the intermittent failed starts and rough
idles and stalls. Might be a pattern here.

>Temperature extremes is the clue here. Start with the CTS.
>
>Oh yeah, and as always, take a peek at the throttle body and see if it's
>clean of ront. Should have shiny plates and little carbon buildup. If
>it's carbony, goopy, or has a lot of junk, clean it out while you're
>replacing the sensor - it's cheap, easy, fun, and can help too. Just
>pull it out, take off the sensor and IAC, and use throttle body cleaner
>and an old toothbrush to get everything out. Then wipe the IAC off, put
>it all back together, and bolt back on (watch the gasket position).

As for carboning up the throttle body, this seems to be a major
complaint from most SL owners.

thanks for your reply it helps.

Tom @ www.URLBee.com