Ya that's how the Jeep shop wrecked mine.

Mike

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I have more
> experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
>
> Earle
>
> "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
> ...
> > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe wrench like a
> > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of the cone
> > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench to grab
> > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get pretty
> > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an oil
> > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
> >
> > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be bolted
> to
> > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is sufficient.
> I
> > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the holes to
> hold
> > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole seems like
> > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very humid.
> >
> > /Peter
> >
> > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How about a
> > > plumbers pipe wrench?
> > >
> > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the socket
> > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under it while
> > > still being able to turn.
> > >
> > > Good luck.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so my wife
> > isn't
> > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to fab up
> this
> > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of 1/4" x 1
> > 1/2"
> > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient, or
> should
> > I
> > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the one in the
> > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
> > driveshaft to
> > > > this yoke ...
> > > >
> > > > /Peter
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> > > > ...
> > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if you
> don't
> > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of steel up
> with
> > a
> > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the pinion to
> hold
> > it
> > > > > steady while tightening.
> > > > >
> > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and other
> kinds
> > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did mine wrong
> > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real' machine shop!
> > > > >
> > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you cannot do the
> > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If you do,
> you
> > > > > fast have a dead box.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the pinion gear
> > from
> > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for that.
> > This is
> > > > a
> > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for a
> wrench
> > of
> > > > any
> > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM for
> holding
> > the
> > > > > > yoke.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers, hubs, and
> > axle
> > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back on to
> > tighten
> > > > the
> > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's right?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
> > > > > > ...
> > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't bottomed out as
> > the
> > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was up
> > against
> > > > the
> > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch pounds
> without
> > > > axles,
> > > > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue Loc-Tite
> > then.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and tighten the
> > nut to
> > > > 160
> > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and turned
> the
> > > > pinion
> > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so it needs
> to
> > be
> > > > > > tighter.
> > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard to tell
> > > > what's
> > > > > > lash
> > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a helper
> > with
> > > > > > stronger
> > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake pedal
> > hard
> > > > enough
> > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion nut.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
> > > > > > > > ...
> > > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that have
> > loosened.
> > > > If
> > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have is not
> > sliding
> > > > up
> > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did, as the
> > crush
> > > > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between them. Have
> you
> > hit
> > > > it
> > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful in
> > feeling
> > > > with
> > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but it's been
> > re-used
> > > > a
> > > > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite on it?
> Red
> > or
> > > > Blue?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> >
> >