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Old February 24th 05, 08:50 PM
N8N
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There are a few special instructions.

1) when pressing the pistons back in the calipers, open the bleeder
screw so as not to push brake fluid backwards through the system. You
don't want to get debris from the calipers back into the ABS control
valves.

2) If you are replacing the calipers, pinch off the brake hoses with
some plastic hose pinch off tools so as not to let the master cylinder
run dry. If any of the circuits run dry, you will have to bleed the
ABS control unit which requires the GM scan tool. Likewise, you can
run fresh brake fluid through the system, but as Mike says you can't do
a traditional flush in the sense of emptying it, flushing with alcohol,
and then refilling.

3) If you have to replace the hoses, it might be best to let someone
with a scan tool do the job as you will definitely have to bleed the
ABS control unit when done. Same thing goes for replacing the master
cylinder or proportioning valve.

good luck,

nate

Mike Walsh wrote:
> The commonly replaced parts e.g. shoes, wheel cylinders, pads,

calipers are exactly the same with or without ABS. Some parts are
different. If you replace a rotor and hub assembly it must have the
teeth for the ABS speed sensor. Some people have said that you can not
flush brake fluid with ABS without some special procedure or tools, but
I have done several just like in the old days without any problems.
>
> wrote:
> >
> > I'm a shade tree mechanic who has done his own brake work for 25+
> > years. I've always had older cars so I have never worked on one

with
> > anti-lock. I've a 99 suburban that probably needs new pads and I

might
> > as well replace the fluid. Can I do this work like I always have

or
> > are them some gotchas that I need to keep in mind now that

anti-lock is
> > part of job?
> >
> > tks
> > don

>
> --
> Mike Walsh
> West Palm Beach, Florida, U.S.A.


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