Daniel J. Stern wrote:

Daniel Stern? The same Daniel Stern that gave me the directions on how
to wire in a regular voltage regulator into my '86 Dodge Daytona about
6 months ago? FYI, it's still running good as my normal day-to-day
driver.


> To check the computer codes:
> Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a
> 55 (five and five). 12 means "start of codes", 55 means "end of codes"
> or, if by itself, "No codes stored".

I Checked the codes, and came up with 12 and 55.
>
> To eliminate the 2nd and 3rd on this list, remove the distributor cap and
> observe the rotor while cranking the engine. If it turns, the timing belt
> and intermediate shaft are intact.

Distributor turns. so I went back and double checked all my earlier
work. In checking the voltage at the fuel pump, it has the split
second of voltage when I put the key to run, but if I crank the engine
the voltage stayed up about 10.8v. I still have the fuel filter off,
and nothing was coming out so I would assume now that the pump is
dead. Replacement pump is pushing $200, is there any other way I can
test the pump other than pulling it out and putting 12v directly to it?
Where the plug is in the car prevents me from doing it unless I drop
the tank, unless I want some possible bad connections and sparks
flying. No fun there! The thought of working on all those rusted
bolts and fuel fittings while laying on the garage cement is not a
pleasent thought.

Thanks
BZ