View Single Post
  #4  
Old July 21st 05, 10:59 PM
Daniel J. Stern
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005, backally wrote:

> Daniel J. Stern wrote:
>
> Daniel Stern? The same Daniel Stern that gave me the directions on how
> to wire in a regular voltage regulator into my '86 Dodge Daytona about
> 6 months ago?


The very same.

> FYI, it's still running good as my normal day-to-day driver.


Terrific, but don't tell "maxpower" a/k/a "damnnickname" a/k/a Glenn
Beasley. He claims this fix doesn't work.


> I Checked the codes, and came up with 12 and 55.


Assuming you checked the codes *after* disconnecting the battery for 2
minutes,
reconnecting it and attempting to start the vehicle, this tells us the
SBEC sees your distributor.

> Distributor turns.


Good...

> In checking the voltage at the fuel pump, it has the split second of
> voltage when I put the key to run, but if I crank the engine the voltage
> stayed up about 10.8v.


....which is normal line voltage with the starter operating. Sounds like
your fuel pump control circuit is in OK shape.

> I still have the fuel filter off, and nothing was coming out so I would
> assume now that the pump is dead.


It's certainly beginning to look that way.

> Replacement pump is pushing $200


....but you get a new pump, seal, and float/pickup assembly.

> is there any other way I can
> test the pump other than pulling it out and putting 12v directly to it?


Well, you could replace the pump with a new one, and then when the car
starts you'll know it was the old one...

> Where the plug is in the car prevents me from doing it unless I drop
> the tank


Yep, dropping the tank will be necessary.

> The thought of working on all those rusted bolts and fuel fittings while
> laying on the garage cement is not a pleasent thought.


If it is sufficiently unpleasant, you may want to farm this one out.
Ads