Yours is indeed heavily modified, it would have been useful if you had
mentioned that earlier. 3 lashes with the wet noodle to you!

The 36" tires are likely to cause this beast to wander heavily behind
most any tow vehicle less than 8000 pounds. Your Durango is just not in
the right size range. Your Durango comes in at 5100 pounds, good sized,
just not big enough. Another poster mentioned a 75% rule of thumb (towed
is no more than 75% of the base vehicle.) Decent starting point, derate
that to perhaps 50% for flat towing.

A tow dolly would improve things for handling, you still have the
problem of brakes.

wrote:

> I assure you the weight of the CJ is 4400 lbs. I took it to a scale
> and had it weighed. (Actually it was 4650 but I plan on taking off the
> hard doors for towing which should eliminate 250 lbs.) Among other
> things it has 36" boggers, a 360 engine, a full roll cage, Dana 60s
> front and rear, two layers of custom skid plates in addition to the
> stock skid plate, custom bumpers, winch, and a variety of other heavy
> stuff.
>
> The tow vehicle is a 2wd 2002 Dodge Durango. Not sure if this
> qualifies as the "Ford Expedit*ion or GM equivalent" suggested by Dean
> or not.
>
> The jeep rear axle is indeed a full floating with unlockable hubs. If
> I understand what you all are saying, if I unlock all 4 hubs there
> will be no lubrication issues. Do I still need to stop every 200 miles
> and let the engine idle to splash lubrication up on the bearings? I'm
> a bit confused, because in one instance Jeff said I would need to
> leave the front hubs locked in to lubricate... but once it was clearly
> understood that I have full floating in the rear, the advice changed
> to leave all 4 hubs unlocked. I don't understand why the rear
> configuration would change the requirement to lock in the front hubs or
> not? (Please bear with me if I sound ignorant... I have had some
> lesser/stock jeeps and been offroad before but this is my first heavily
> modified rig. I bought it as is built by someone else and am still
> learning all the ins and outs... I only know enough to be dangerous
> but am trying to learn)
>
> A thought: Would a potential good solution be a tow dolly? This could
> get the CJ's front wheels up off the road and eliminate the steering
> problem, yet would only add a couple hundred pounds of weight instead
> of a thousand or more.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
>>YOU TOLD US IN ANOTHER POST THAT YOUR CJ HAS FULL FLOATING REAR HUBS.
>
> This
>
>>is a critical bit of information AND IT CHANGES THE ENTIRE
>
> DISCUSSION.
>
>>Full Floaters allow flat towing, indeed they are a primary reason
>
> people
>
>>even install them. Well, maybe not primary reason, but CERTAINLY this
>
> is an
>
>>added benefit.
>>
>>All you need do is unlock all four hubs, and you are ready to go. The
>
> tires
>
>>will be disconnected at the hub from the entire rest of the drive
>
> train,
>
>>COMPLETELY REMOVING the requirement to set the levers on the
>
> transmission
>
>>and transfer case to any specific position. With the hubs unlocked on
>
> the
>
>>rear axle, the drivetrain will remain at rest while you are towing
>
> your CJ.
>
>>Not only do Full Floaters let you flat tow, but if you manage to
>
> break an
>
>>axle shaft, you can disconnect the affected tire and still drive your
>
> Jeep.
>
>>This is the primary reason why people install them.
>>
>>You bought a Bonus, you can flat tow without any worries.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> wrote in message
groups.com...
>>
>>>I just got a tow vehicle which is only rated to tow 4800 lbs.... so
>
> it
>
>>>can tow my CJ, but not the CJ + trailer.
>>>
>>>Is there anything special I need to know before flat towing? I'm
>>>guessing I should put the transfer case and transmission in
>
> neutral,
>
>>>and lock in the hubs. Anything else I should do?
>>>
>
>