> The advantage to the swivels is that the ends of the adjusting screws do
> not get faceted. As I understand it, once the tip is faceted, accurate
> valve adjustment is very hard to accomplish.

Not very hard, just a bit less accurate, but nothing to worry about. You
can replace or resurface the adjusting screws by wiping on sandpaper every
3-4 oil changes if you want.

You can adjust just a bit tighter (so that the feeler gauge slides tightly)
to compensate for the wearing in in the new position. Anyway, don't worry
so much about extra accurate settings, even the feeler gauges don't have
100% accurate thicknesses. They usually are 10-20% off their nominal
thickness. Try to measure one with a micrometer and you'll see. Try not to
have less than about 0.15mm valve lash the engine will be happy. With more
valve lash the valve noise increases and if exesive you might lose a bit of
power.

>
> So the Berg setup -- shims under the towers -- is bogus? I know that the
> valve geometry must get disturbed by the shims, but this is a 1600DP on a
> bus with standard valves and non-ratio rockers, etc. I don't think that
> this slight change to the geometry will affect my performance.

It doesn't have to do as much with performance, as with valve guide wear.
Maybe sims or spacers don't alter the geometry too much, but why go worse
than stock? The idea is to do modifications the right way in order to
improve things.
If you find that spacers are needed, the entire valve geometry must be
rechecked. Otherwise, it is better to stay with the stock adjusters.


Bill,
'67 Bug.