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Old July 18th 05, 05:28 AM
Dave Milne
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The dealers here use Mobil 1 0W-40.
I don't think I have ever seen a 10W-30 on the shelves; 10W-40 is the norm.

Dave Milne, Scotland

"Jerry Bransford" > wrote in message
news:XFFCe.13419$Eo.9099@fed1read04...
> There's no way I'd ever switch away from the '97 TJ's factory
> recommended 10W-30 to anything as heavy as 20W-40 or 20W-50. The 40 and
> 50 viscosities those operate at when warmed up are more difficult to
> pump through the engine's oil journals than is necessary and just makes
> the oil pump work harder. Plus the 20W viscosity it is before it warms
> up is harder to get pumped into the engine when it's cold which can
> cause reduced lubrication at startup, which is where much of an engine's
> wear comes from. Leading oil manufacturers are now even recommending
> 5W-30 over 10W-30 since it gets into the engine faster at startup yet it
> is still a good 30 weight viscosity when it gets up to normal operating
> temperature.
>
> On your coolant and water mixture, it should be no stronger than 50:50.
> The more antifreeze used, the less efficient the mixture is at cooling
> the engine.
>
> Jerry
>
> Endo wrote:
> > The fan clutch sounds probable, and I will probably flush it too just to

be
> > safe but the antifreeze in it is only about a year old and still nice

and
> > green. Maybe it's too strong a mixture and I need more water.I will get

a
> > bottle of the Redline Water Wetter too just to help out.
> >
> > I will consider a heavier weight oil also, i'm due for a change now

anyway.
> > Too bad Wally-World only carries Valvoline full synthetic in 10w30 so

i'm
> > going to have to go to a 'real' parts store like Auto Zone. (sic)
> >
> > Shawn
> >
> >
> > "L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >
> >>Hi Endo,
> >> I'd flush your system like you've doing every two years to avoid
> >>the electrolysis that'll eat the head gasket, water pump seal, and core
> >>plugs. And go ahead and replace the fan clutch.
> >> The oil temperature lags behind the water, but eventually catches
> >>up, if you had checked it you would have seen it with the constancy of
> >>water, with about the same lubricating qualities. If your going to get
> >>caught in traffic jams, then switch to 20/40, or 20/50 like I use at
> >>three hundred thousand miles. Remember pickups with the trailer package
> >>also have oil coolers.
> >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
> >>
> >>Endo wrote:
> >>
> >>>I was idling in traffic on the 4th waiting to get into parking at the

new
> >>>Heinz Field in Pittsburgh for fireworks and all of a sudden my temp
> >>>jumped
> >>>up to just below the red and the 'check gauges' light came on. I did a
> >>>quick u=turn and got into a non-congested lane and got moving to get

some
> >>>air flowing and it calmed down to a little over 210, but just a hair
> >>>higher
> >>>than usual. I was running the a/c on max since i had the top on still.
> >>>Shortly after it cooled back down to a more reasonable level I noticed
> >>>another strange problem....when I came to a stop the oil pressure would
> >>>dive
> >>>down to zero and the light would come on again. Once it cooled down

for
> >>>good after parking for awhile this went away too. It's done it a few
> >>>more
> >>>times since and it's usually during slow driving with the a/c on. The
> >>>oil
> >>>level seems fine and it's Valvoline full synthetic 10w30. Coolant is
> >>>topped
> >>>off and is a nice green color, not nasty stuff.
> >>>
> >>>Any theories for this happening?
> >>>
> >>>Shawn

> >
> >
> >

>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/



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