Perhaps he does not understand how to correct the problem if he is one tooth
when the distributor was installed.
If it is one tooth off it may still be timeable if the distributor can be
rotated sufficiently.
Check the timing, with a light, while cranking. If you are one tooth off
you may have to search to find the mark. I used to rub chalk or paint the
marks with nail polish for visibility.
I do not know if this V-6 is an interference engine. Do you know Bill?
Note where the rotor points while installed.
Carefully and slowly remove distributor
Note where rotor now points.
Rotate rotor one tooth in the appropriate direction
Slowly re-insert distributor
Rotor should point directly to cylinder #1 terminal
Check timing.
Do you have a timing light? If not you can do it manually by setting the
timing mark at the appropriate advance and rotating the distributor until
you get a spark.
"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
> Sorry I don't own one.
>
> It is normal for the rotor to be slightly past #1 if the timing is set
> at 5 or more degrees BTDC. What that means is the rotor will hit the
> contact before the engine hits TDC so when the engine finally is at Top,
> the rotor has past the contact post for #1 wire.
>
> The fire happens when the metal part of the rotor first hits the post on
> the cap or just when the points first crack open.
>
> You turn the distributor's case to fine tune it in. This can be done
> with a timing light even if it isn't running. The starter cranking will
> be enough to make the light flash. A test light on the points for a
> static test will tell too. Set the distributor nut down at first
> flicker.
>
> You should have a notch on the flywheel that indicates TDC also.
>
> I don't understand how your rotor can point to both places. Either it
> is right on the center of the post for the wire if you have the
> prestolite distributor or it is inbetween 1 and 6 for the delco remy.
>
> You turn the distributor's case to fine tune it in. This can be done
> with a timing light even if it isn't running. The starter cranking will
> be enough to make the light flash. A test light on the points will tell
> too. Set the distributor at first flicker.
>
> The one that catches most folks is the two different top dead centers
> the #1 piston has with one 360 rotor rotation.
>
> Mike
>
> Bill Lahr wrote:
>>
>> Milke,
>>
>> Thanks. It is difficult to tell from a book. I have a Haynes manual, but
>> the drawing isn't that clear and it doesn't have any details on the
>> early GM engines, only the similar Dauntless V6. The rotor is wide on
>> the Oddfire distributor and mine will either center on #1 at TDC on the
>> compression stroke or point between #1 and #6. If you have one of these
>> engines (Delco distributor), could you pop the cap and look at where the
>> centerline of the rotor points at TDC? There is a small notch on the
>> distributor that represents the #1 position. One would assume it would
>> point to that mark, not past it.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>> > My book shows it to be at the 5:00 position looking at it from the
>> > front
>> > of the engine with the firing order 165432 clockwise.
>> >
>> > Yours sounds like it is off a gear tooth maybe on the rotor or the
>> > distributor needs to be turned to clock it. It should be at 1 or just
>> > slightly after towards the 6. My book also shows two different
>> > advances. It says 0 for the prestolite distributor and 5 deg for the
>> > delco remy.
>> >
>> > Also make sure it is on the compression stroke TDC, not the exhaust
>> > stroke's TDC. You can stick you finger in the plug hole and feel the
>> > compression as it comes up.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > Bill Lahr wrote:
>> >
>> >>I'm trying to fire up a '61 CJ5 that I am almost finished restoring.
>> >>Engine is from a '64 Buick Special, suspect it is the 198ci because it
>> >>has a Rochester Monojet rather than the 2bbl found on the 225. No
>> >>matter, same block, etc. I have compression, I have manifold vacuum,
>> >>rebuilt the carb, have fuel, rebuilt the distributor (vacuum advance
>> >>had
>> >>a hole in it) and have spark, but it won't start. The previous owner
>> >>had
>> >>installed a new timing chain after he parked it, but never drove it,
>> >>and
>> >>I assume he did that correctly or it would have destroyed a valve in
>> >>cranking it over. But he apparently had to pull the distributor. It is
>> >>driven by a hypoid gear that causes the rotor to twist as you remove
>> >>it,
>> >>so I suspect he may not have inserted it correctly. At TDC, the rotor
>> >>was pointing midway between #1 and #6.
>> >>
>> >>There is a small notch on the side of the distributor housing that
>> >>marks
>> >>the #1 position. What I need is for someone with an Oddfire engine to
>> >>set it to TDC and tell me where the centerline of the contact strip on
>> >>top of the rotor is pointing. (The contact is wide at the end, but
>> >>please ignore that.) Right now, mine points directly at the notch, but
>> >>I
>> >>am not sure if this is correct. I can't find any manuals that cover an
>> >>engine this old. I need to set the ignition timing before I can finish
>> >>troubleshooting it.
>> >>
>> >>Thanks.
>> >>--
>> >>
>> >>Bill Lahr
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Bill Lahr
>>