Just remember:

When it knocks like that, a rod is getting egged. So it will pay you to have
all 8 rods reconed when you do the motor.

Refinish King


"The Ancient One" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Refinish King" > wrote in message
> ...
> > I'm of the mentality:
> >
> > If one bearing is lose, another one is lurking to get me!
> >
> > So if I sounded brash, I wasn't at all. I just get nervous that
something
> is
> > going to bite me in the back, and usually does.
> >
> > I was married, if you get my drift?
> >
> > Refinish King
>
> hehehee, oh yeah.
>
> Another reason I only replaced one was because I figured I would have to
> replace the crank anyway, and most reconditioned cranks are at least .010
> undersized, so I would be wasting the money I spent on a whole set.
> I just bought one so I could get an accurate reading from that journal,
> and was quite surprised when it read so good.
> Being somewhat eager to have my truck on the road again, and hoping for
> the best, I reassembled it and went for broke.
> I've made a couple of trips to town and back and the knocking is not
> getting any worse yet, hopefully it will last until I can budget the funds
> to fix it right, whatever it takes.
>
> >
> >
> > "The Ancient One" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > >
> > > "Refinish King" > wrote in
> message
> > > ...
> > > > The coolant is what did in the bearings:
> > >
> > > The coolant leak was external, no coolant was ever in the oil, and the
> > > garage changed the oil after replacing the gasket to insure there was
no
> > > contamination from the gasket change.
> > >
> > > >
> > > > not the shop replacing the manifold gaskets. So there are several
> > factors
> > > at
> > > > work here, mainly. The main bearings were never checked.
> > > >
> > > > Secondly, why did you only replace the one bearing, the sides of the
> > > others
> > > > could be egged at the parting line.
> > >
> > > Only one failed the plasti-gauge check, so I only replaced the one. I
> > > expected it to still fail the test, but it did not.
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Thirdly, The cam bearings were also etched by the zombie juice that
> was
> > in
> > > > the crank case when the manifold leaked.
> > > >
> > > > So, if you would have replaced all the rod bearings, all the mains,
> > there
> > > > would have been 12 less chances for a knock. The mains are most
likely
> > > lose
> > > > and leaking pressure, and the rod bearings are more than likely
egged
> at
> > > the
> > > > sides, so when the oil thins out at operating temperature. You lose
> the
> > > oil
> > > > strata that normally quiets the knock hydraulically.
> > > >
> > > > You might be able to save it in vehicle, but would you want to take
> that
> > > > chance again, with the price of a good kit, with Sealed Power
pistons,
> > > cam,
> > > > rings, bearings will most likely be sealed power and not cleveite.
> but,
> > if
> > > > you want the best you'll have to pay more.
> > > >
> > > > Machining it won't cost a lot and the timing chain, cam bearings and
> > > freeze
> > > > plugs will be in the kit too.
> > > >
> > > > I hope this helps?
> > >
> > > Every suggestion helps. Thanks.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>