In article >,
Olde Chrysler > wrote:

> Refrigerant containing "dye" is for lamers. It causes more problems
> than it solves, including hose and seal deterioration, gumming up of
> Schraeder valves, plugged expansion valves and on and on. Don't use
> "dye" refrigerant.

Cite?
Many OEMs install system dye at the factory.

> Poop Boys sells and promotes that crap, I believe,
> so they can sell more compressor swap jobs out in the shop.

You're confusing dye with sealant and O-ring conditioner.

> The only
> way to do a good leak test is with a proper halide detector. Small
> leaks may need application of dry nitrogen to boost system pressure to
> find them.

Actually, R-22 and pressurizing to 75psi or so with Nitrogen
works quite well and is 100% acceptable with the EPA.

> >This time I was
> >going to put the dye in but I'm stuck because the compressor is not
> >running. I'm pretty sure it's cause the low pressure switch is not
> >allowing it to run. In my Haynes book it says that this is not uncommon
> >and is easily taken care of by unplugging the low pressure wire plug
> >and jumping the wires and the compressor will run continuously allowing
> >me to fill with freon. The ONLY trouble with this whole thing is that
> >they don't show me where and what this plug looks like. The last thing
> >I want to do is start crossing wires and short something out.
> > If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. <snip>
>
> First, you don't say what car/system this is, so I'll assume it to be
> a Chrysler H-block layout. If so, the low cutout switch is on the
> H-block itself, a rubber 2 conductor plug...NOT the evaporator
> thermostat, which is downstream on the suction side.
>
> First, you obviously have a leaking system, and you're probably
> already short of oil. Second, since the compressor's already cycling
> due to vacuum on the suction side, there's a better than 50/50 chance
> the system is contaminated with air and moisture, which is death to
> any refrigeration system.
>
> Take the car to a licensed tech and do it right the first time. I've
> seen dozens of compressor failures/contaminated systems from people
> getting those infernal "cans" at Poop Boys or similar and a cheapie
> charging hose. Since 134A doesn't have the same oil miscibility as
> 12, oil level in the system in crucial to compressor survival. Second
> in line is owners who add the wrong viscosity oil, or the wrong base
> stock. Want to see a compressor fly apart? Just put some mineral
> base stock refrigeration oil in a 134A system! If you do not have a
> good vacuum pump that'll pull at least 100 torr, you can't do a good
> job of purging/charging a system anyway.

100 torr? You're kidding right?
100 torr is a little less than 100,000 microns. If my vacuum
pump was only capable of 100,000 microns, I'd toss it in the
trash! A good vacuum pump is easily capable of <100 microns.