Matt,

You may be right. I put the new magnetic dial indicator on the rotors & low
and behold one side was out only .003, the other .006" - I measured both
sides for runout - the side with the .006 is a thickness problem. Either
way - I'm sure that's well within spec. I took my die grinder with a scotch
brite roloc to the outside surfaces to rough them up a bit. Made a series
of hard stops - under hard braking it is smooth & has powerful braking -
easily got the abs working. Its still not quite right on the normal stop.
I may take the wheels off and rough up the inside surfaces as well - but
I'll first drive around a bit with some heavy braking. ( with my last set
of rotors were really warped, a mountain road helped with the warping - the
things were toast) I have to say that having a dial indicator is going to
be pretty useful for these sort of problems in the future.

Mark


"Matt Whiting" > wrote in message
...
> I've not used these type of pads, but does the break-in procedure call
> for very light braking during break-in? The break-in procedures I've
> read typically call for moderate to heavy braking during initial
> break-in to avoid glazing the pads and rotors. Usually, you make a
> series of reasonably hard stops with adequate cooling time in between to
> avoid warping the rotors.
>
> It is possible to "warp" the rotors without actually warping them. The
> theory is that with braking that is too light, you can cause the rotor
> to have uneven friction around its circumference and this causes pulsing
> that feels like a warped rotor, when in fact the rotor is just fine
> dimensionally. I've read that it can sometimes be cured with a series
> of fairly heavy stops to break the glaze.
>
> If you feel the braking is already so annoying that you are ready to
> replace the rotors again, then you have nothing to lose by trying a few
> hard stops to see if it helps.
>
>
> Matt
>