Yeah, I couldn't figure out why he wanted it off either - but better
to tell him how than have it busted and creating more of a problem.

You'll find this interesting. Couple of weeks back, I made my usual
check of lights and found that I had no brake lights. I had the
emergency flashers, so the circuit was good. Pulled the brake switch,
cleaned it up and all was well. Couple of days later, I noticed that
I had to be one the brakes pretty firmly to get the lights. Hmmm...
no adjustment on that switch...
Just sitting there with the radio on, I let my foot rest on the brake
pedal - and got a wierd racket in the radio. Playing around, I could
get that noise to repeat as I eased the pedal down - and it stopped
when I got far enough down to get the brake lights to illuminate!
Changed the brake switch then tore into the old one and sure enough
the contacts were corroded enough to require considerable pressure to
break the corrosion and actuall make contact - the noise was from the
arcing as it tried to close through the corrosion. Shades of the old
corroded headlight switch and its thermal breaker!

On Wed, 13 Sep 2006 13:45:45 UTC Mike Romain >
wrote:

> He says the switch works Wlll. The center brake light comes on.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > Again, you didn't give the year/model so I can't be sure which switch
> > you have, but on my 88 and the son's 91 the switch has a two-wire
> > lead/connector that plugs onto the switch itself. On his, he has a
> > third tab connected to the open side of the switch that is referenced
> > in the FSM as being for the auto tranny only. I also have the third
> > tab with a 5-spd but it is simply sitting there with no connection.
> >
> > On those larger connectors you sometimes have to "reason" with them -
> > they have a locking tit on the lug that drops into a hole in the
> > female side and they can be pretty tight to get off. I use a thin
> > screwdriver to pry the connector off - carefully.
> > Since you are working with one lead hot to the battery, you might want
> > to pull the negative cable before doing this unless arcs and sparks
> > don't bother you.
> >
> > On Tue, 12 Sep 2006 12:17:31 UTC "Len" > wrote:
> >
> > > Will thanks for the advise, I will check the ground. The reason I
> > > thought it was the brake switch is because it's only when I brake that
> > > all the back tail lights go out except the one on the hatch door. It
> > > was cheap enough to buy, but I couldn't get the wiring disconected.
> > >
> > >
> > > Will Honea wrote:
> > > > On Tue, 12 Sep 2006 02:07:16 UTC "Len" > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > 01 Loredo, With running lights on and press on the brake, all tail
> > > > > lights go out. The hatch light works fine. Could this be the brake
> > > > > switch. If so , what is the trick to getting the wire harness
> > > > > unplugged?
> > > >
> > > > In general, what you describe is a ground problem with the rear lights
> > > > - brake lights use more power than the tail lights, so if the ground
> > > > is flakey, the extra load will cause the bad grouind to open. If you
> > > > pull the light assembly, you should find a ground wire from the
> > > > plastic housing to the rear fender - take that sucker loose from the
> > > > fender and clean the snot out of it
> > > >
> > > > Don't know exactly how your brake switch is mounted - you don't give a
> > > > year - but on my vintage '88 the brake switch is a simple normally
> > > > open switch mounted on the brake pedal where the square end of the
> > > > connecting rod operates it - no way is it going to affect the tail
> > > > lights.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Will Honea
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea


--
Will Honea