>
>
> Remco wrote:
> > Hey Guys
> >
> > I am getting ready to do my first body off repair on my 75 regular
bug
> > as it needs heater channels and floor panels. I'll also do some
work on
> > the frame, brakes, etc. I'll take my time and will not be in a
great
> > hurry to get it back together.
> >
> > Have read through several very helpful websites and googled the
> > subject. Watched the bugme video ad Nauseum, according to my wife

> >
> >>From what I've gathered, these are the most important points to
> > remember, but would like to know what you guys think:
> >
> > 1 - Don't open the doors - ever! I could just weld one spot to make
> > sure this won't happen, or could just lock the door. Welding is
more
> > fun
> > 2 - Weld cross braces in the door openings before the body off is
> > attempted.
> > 3 - Be sure to line up the holes in the floor panel/heater
channels. I
> > figure I'll make a template out of plyboard and index it to
something
> > that won't change to make sure nothing moves. Not sure what a good
> > common index would be.
> > 4 - Learn to curse like a boatworker and blame stuff on your tools
when
> > something goes wrong - got that covered
> >
> > Should I put a cross brace across the width of the bug?
> > I'd imagine that everything will start flopping around when the old
> > heater channels are cut out. Or should I not worry about that? (It
> > would be a pain to work around this brace, but that would be much
> > lessened by cursing like a boatworker).
> >
> > Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
> >
> > Remco
> >
> My 1303 is half way through a body off resto
>
> Floor pans are done
>
> I took the doors off. I will fix a brace across the door opening
before
> I cut out the heater channels. (bugme dont leave the doors on ! )
>
> I measured the hole offset from the tunnel to the floor pan holes and

> made sure the new ones went in the same place. I will 'loose' fit
the
> heater channels and put the body on to line up the holes and door
> opening (as in the bugme vid's ) before I weld it good and proper
(thats
> my plan anyway)
>
> I dont know what shape yours is in, but it took me more time to undo
> PO's bad repairs before I could separate the body. The heater
channels
> were welded to the floor all the way round !
>
> Some of the 17mm bolts that I removed 'span' in the chassis, so I
guess
> I will have to weld new nuts to the body chassis points before I can
> bolt the rolling chassis back up. (dont know if you have the same
bolts
> on a standard bug)
>
> be prepared for more work than you think. I am just about to replace

> the frame head. It looked ok before I could see it :-) .
>
> other bits and pieces - like the front and back valences were full of

> filler (bondo) etc.
>
> Mainly rusted nut/bolts/bleed nipples etc... are what slowed me down.
>
> Its not too bad when you get it separated and can see the task ahead
!
>
> Good luck, and if I can be of any help while the body is still off
mine
> (photos etc. ), just ask !
>

Hey Rich


Thanks for that! You've already done quite a bit - that's great! So
yours had the floorpan welded to the heater channel?! I can only
imagine what colorful names you used to describe the previous
mechanic..

I realize that the bugme video allows for the door to be opened -
you're right: maybe I can open the doors once I properly brace the door
opening. It will certainly make it a lot more comfortable, welding in
the equivalent of a large soupcan in the middle of summer. I'll see how
rigid it all is and then decide what to do. I won't pull the doors off
in any case, just to keep the weather out a little.

Mine is in pretty rough shape but has never been tinkered with so
that's hopefully a good thing. I've taken a sharp alw and pushed hard
against all surfaces. The only surfaces that were found bad are one
floor, one heater channel and strangely enough a spot hidden by the
passenger wheelwell (not anywhere near where water can be trapped,
which just seems weird).
I am sure more are found as the body is removed, though. I'd be
surprised if the passenger heater channel/floor pan will not need to be
replaced but I can't tell looking at it from the top. Somehow the
drives side is totally rotted out, but the passenger side looks ok.
Where the battery belongs also seems solid.
A friend of mine has access to a huge sandblast area at work (a train
could fit inside), so that will help when I start looking for trouble
using it.

Thanks for the tip also on how to keep the channels aligned. I'll try
to do the same thing.

Remco