You are getting nice and close.... I'll forward this on to someone who
knows..... You better show exactly where I recommended mixing oils, buster
because I have you uttering false statement.

Looks to me like you crossed the line and made my day....


> wrote in message
news
>
>
>
> you claim to be a diesel guy
> and yet you recommend to mix oils
> lmfao
>
> you failed year 4
> go hydrotreat that
> lmfao
> where do ya get your thermal crack ?
>
> lmfao
>
>
> Information for PowerStroke owners
>
>
> Click here for 6.0 PowerStroke and Torqshift Information
>
> Engine oil requirements
> The most common problem with Ford's 7.3 Direct Injection Turbo diesel
> is related to engine oil change interval and type of oil being used.
> It is critical for proper engine operation that the customer or
> technician servicing the vehicle check that the correct oil is being
> used. This engine uses a high pressure oil pump to operate the fuel
> injectors. Typical system pressures are 500 psi at idle, 1200 at 3300
> rpm in neutral, and 3600 psi at full load acceleration. Oil for the
> PowerStroke requires an anti-foaming agent to prevent the oil from
> aerating, which would result in poor fuel injector spray patterns and
> reduced power. Depending on vehicle usage, the anti-foaming agents are
> depleted in 3000-5000 miles.
>
> The only oil recommended for the PowerStroke by Ford is Motorcraft
> Super Duty 15W40, 10W30. Each of these has the proper additives in
> them for use in a diesel engine including the anti-foaming agents. The
> 15W40 is recommended for normal climates, the 10W30 for temperatures
> below 20 degrees fahranheit. For temperatures below -10 degees, 5W-30
> is recommended. There are other oils, however, that do meet all the
> requirments for use in the PowerStroke. The specifications the owner
> needs to look for on the label are the API rating of CF-4/SH or
> CG-4/SH or higher. Some other oils with the correct ratings a
>
>
> Penzoil Long-Life 15W40
> Shell Rotella-T 15W40
> Chevron Delo 400 15W40, 10W30
> Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W40
> Castrol Heavy-Duty 15W40
> Valvoline All-Fleet Plus or Cummins Premium Blue: 15W40
> Union 76 Guardol QLT 15W40
> Wal-Mart's Tech 2000 Universal 15W40
> Texaco Ursa Super Plus 15W40, 10W30
> Quaker State FCI Universal 15W40, 10W30
> Quaker State FCI HDX Plus 15W40
> Kendall Super-D 3 15W40, 10W30
> Kendall SHP Diesel 15W40
> Exxon XD-3 Extra 15W40
> Citgo Mystik Premium Fleet 15W40
> Citgo Mystik JT-8 15W40, 15W50, 10W30
> For those of you wishing to use synthetic oil, the only ones I have
> seen with the correct specs for the PowerStroke engine a
>
> Motorcraft Super All Season 0W-30 Semi Synthetic
> Amsoil Series 3000 Synthetic 5W30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil
> Amsoil 15W40 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Oil
> Amsoil 10W30/SAE 30 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Oil
> Amsoil 10W-40 and 20W-50 Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil
>
> Amsoil Synthetic 5W-40 European Engine Oil
> Amsoil 15W40 Semi-Synthetic Gasoline and Diesel Oil
> Mobil Delvac 1 High-Performance Synthetic, Heavy Duty Diesel Engine
> Oil 5W40
> Quaker State 4X4 15W40 Synthetic Blend
> Shell Rotella SB (synthetic blend)
> Shell Rotella T 5W-40
> Royal Purple Synthetic 15W-40, 10W-30, 20W50
> Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 Synthetic Blend 15W-40
> Conklin Convoy 15W-40, 20W-50
> Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5W-40 Synthetic
> Petro-Canada Duron XL 15W-40 Synthetic Blend
> Citgo Mystik SX-8 15W-40 Synthetic Blend
> Advantage Duragard Super HD 15W40
> If these are unavailable you can use a multi-grade synthetic
> designated CF for use in diesel engines along with an anti-foaming
> additive. Some synthetic oils with this rating a
>
> Mobil 1
> Castrol Syntec
> Valvoline SynPower
> Quaker State Syncron Ultra Performance
> Recommended anti-foaming additives are Fleetrite with the Navistar P/N
> CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888. These are primarilly used to counter the
> effects of silicone sealers on the anti-foaming agents in the oil or
> if the agents become depleted from use providing the oil is still
> servicable and uncontaminated. An anti-foaming additive could also be
> used between oil changes if an oil-related poor running condition is
> suspected, especially on a long trip.
> Under normal driving conditions the additive could extend the oil
> change interval to 6000 miles. For vehicles that are used for
> infrequent towing, using the additive at 3000 miles could extend the
> oil change interval to no longer than 5000 miles. Vehicles operated in
> dirty conditions, extreme weather conditions or constantly under heavy
> loads should stick to the 3000 mile service interval due to the other
> agents in the oil being depleted, and should only use the anti-foaming
> additive if performance problems occur between services.
> The refill for the crankcase is 14 quarts for 94-97's and 15 quarts
> for 98.5/99's with filter change. Some early 95 and older engines were
> equipped with a 12 quart dipstick (Navistar P/N 1820068C1) and need to
> be filled to just over the word "FULL", or replaced with the correct
> part (Navistar P/N 1824405C1; Ford P/N F4TZ-6750-E for F-series;
> F5UZ-6750-A for Econoline). Some later dipstick tubes were not seated
> properly causing the crankcase to be over-filled in an attempt to
> bring the level up to the mark.
> The oil filter for the PowerStroke (Motorcraft P/N FL1995) is longer
> than that of the previous Ford/Navistar diesel, and the old-style
> filter should not be used. Due to its seal design, the oil filter
> should be hand tightened, then turned an additional quarter-turn--or
> torqued to 20ft/lbs--with the oil filter wrench to prevent leaking.
> Fuel and air filters
> Another problem that arises, usually during wet weather, is the "water
> in fuel light" staying on. Diesel fuel attracts moisture, and
> unfortunatly water does most of the damage to a diesel's fuel system.
> Normaly the "water in fuel" light only comes on at cold starts when
> the water has had a chance to seperate from the fuel in the filter
> housing. If the water is not drained regularly, it will mix with the
> fuel due to the agitation caused by the fuel pump, and if there is
> enough water in the filter the light stays on. You should drain the
> fuel filter at least once a month, more if the weather is wet. On
> early 97 and older F-series the drain is accessed through the opening
> on the engine trim cover. The yellow drain lever can be seen at the 7
> o'clock position on the fuel filter housing. Turn the lever one
> quarter of a turn clockwise to open it. If the fuel does not drain,
> you may have to crank the engine over. On the late 97 F-series, the
> engine trim has been cut down, but the drain lever is in the same
> position as is the Econoline vans, but the vans need the air filter
> housing removed to access the drain. On the 99 PowerStroke engines,
> the drain has been moved to the ten o'clock position and is turned one
> quarter turn clockwise, and the key turned to the on position to allow
> the electric fuel pump to expell the fuel. 98.5 and newer Econolines
> have a cable attached to the filter drain, which is near the
> transmission dip stick. The fuel drains onto the front crossmember, so
> you may want to install a piece of hose at the end of the drain pipe
> to prevent messes.
> If the fuel becomes very contaminated, you'll want to change the
> filter. Some aftermarket filters have a square-cut o-ring seal instead
> of the lip type of the original [IMAGE]. I recommend using the Ford
> Motorcraft filters FD4595 for the 94-98 and FD4596 for the 98.5-2K or
> their Racor equivalents: IN F4595 and IN F4596. The WIX 33518/NAPA
> Gold 3518 used to be identical to these, but reciently they changed
> design (without changing part numbers) to a square cut lid seal and a
> weak grommet-like lower seal which tends to split. The fuel filter
> also has a pin in the top which opens a valve inside the filter
> housing standpipe. Some aftermarket filters have a shorter pin than
> necessary which results in the valve not opening completely and this
> can cause lack of power concerns. The fuel filter should be changed at
> 15,000 mile intervals.
> On the 97 and older, the filter housing cover can be removed using a
> large screwdriver to turn the cover by laying it across the cover and
> twisting against the ridges on the cover. The 99 fuel filter cover (as
> well as the earlier design) can be removed with a 4 inch oil filter
> wrench. On both types of filter housing, the new o-ring needs to be
> lubed with fuel or oil and installed onto the housing--not the
> cover--with the lip facing up.
> Do not use any fuel additive containing alcohol or ones that would
> allow water to pass through the fuel system to be burned off in the
> cylinders. The tolerances of the fuel injectors are so precise that
> this could cause damage and failure of the injectors from the lack of
> lubrication. Also using fuel not ment for highway use could cause
> damage to the injectors or the catalytic converter. Ford does have a
> fuel additive for use during break-in periods such as when the
> injectors are serviced, and is recommended for use any time fuel
> quality is in question; P/N F8AZ-9C077-AA. In cold weather conditions
> Stanadyne's Performance/All Season Fuel Conditioner (P/N 29409[pt]).
> Above all, do not mix gasolene in with the diesel fuel. If you have an
> algae problem, there are fuel conditioners to correct this, too.
>
> The larger F-series air filter (Motorcraft FA-1617) should be good for
> as long as the fuel filter, depending on dust conditions, but the
> Econoline (FA-1618), the 99 F-series (FA-1675) and 99.5 F-series
> (FA-1680) use a smaller filter (the E-van uses two). It would be a
> good idea to check the air filter(s) on these once a week in dusty
> conditions and replace them every other oil change, and to keep a
> spare. Or you could purchase an after market "washable" filter element
> such as those sold by K&N or Amsoil. When inspecting or replacing the
> air filter, inspect the filter housing drain and clean it as
> necessary.
>
> Cooling system maintenance
> The cooling system on any diesel has special concerns. It's possible
> for the coolant to cavitate--produce tiny bubbles--that can with time
> cause pin holes throught the cylinder walls from the water jackets.
> For this there is an additive; Ford P/N FW-15 or FW-16, Fleetguard P/N
> DCA4; that needs to be maintained in the coolant. Generally this means
> installing 8 to 10 oz of the additive to the cooling system every
> 15000 miles. Another method is to monitor the cooling system with
> Fleetguard's DCA4 test kit P/N CC2602 or CC2602A. This measures the
> level of DCA4 in the system, then you add the amount as required. The
> cooling system should be drained (and flushed if you live in an area
> with especialy alkiline water) and refilled with a fresh 50/50 mix of
> coolant/water and one pint of the additive for every two gallons of
> coolant/water at 30,000 miles. Use only a low-silicate ethylene
> glycol-based coolant. Ford does not recommend using propylene glycol
> coolants in any of their vehicles.
> Antifreezes I can recommend:
>
> Ford or Motorcraft Premium Antifreeze
> Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant
> Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant Prediluted 50/50
> Zerex 5/100 (white bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant
> Zerex Ready To Use Antifreeze/Coolant (premixed 50/50 with
> demineralized water)
> Zerex Heavy Duty Precharged Formula
> Shellzone Premium Quality Antifreeze
> Prestone Heavy Duty (black bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant with SCA
> Fleetguard Compleat EG--precharged at 1.5 units/gallon DCA4
> Also available premixed 50/50 with water with the same DCA4 level
> Pyroil Heavy-Duty Antifreeze/Coolant--Low Silicate
> Peak Full Force or Advance
> FleetCharge Antifreeze/Coolant--precharged with Pencool
> 2002 model year trucks use any of the above if your truck came filled
> with green coolant. If it came from the factory with yellow coolant,
> only use Motorcraft Premium Gold Antifreeze, Zerex G05 (gold bottle),
> Peak Global Extended Life (gold bottle) or Peak Extended Life CF-EXL
> (silver bottle). These coolants do not require SCA/DCA.
>
> Trucks originally filled with Gold coolant:
> All 2002 F-Series built at the Kentucky Truck Plant (VIN 11th digit
> "E")
> 2002 F150-550 built in Cuautitlan (VIN "M") from 2-4-02
> 2002 F650/750 built in Cuautitlan from 1-28-02
> All Econolines built from 7-15-02
> Do not use extended life coolants (ELC) as they can cause water pump
> seal and injector sleeve deterioration.
>
> Tips
> Do not use starting fluids for hard starting problems. With the glow
> plug system, starting fluids can ignite as the key is turned on
> causing engine damage. Keep your batteries and charging system in good
> condition, note any problems with the glow plug cycle, and if you
> experience a hard cold start problem, plug in the block heater, if
> your truck is equiped with one. This will heat the coolant enough to
> aid in starting. If you do experience hard starting, get you truck
> serviced as this condition could cause other system problems if left
> unrepaired, such as starter failure.
> Care should be taken when installing performance enhancing devises or
> "chips", or modifing any electronic engine component such as
> configuring the exhaust back pressure valve to act as an engine brake.
> This can cause driveability problems, "check engine" light to come on,
> and may affect your warrenty.
> If you truck has an automatic overdrive transmission and you tow,
> remember that there is no engine braking in overdrive. It is
> recommended that the overdrive be cancelled when towing in hilly areas
> to prevent accelerated brake and transmission wear and transmission
> overheating.
>
> You may want to pick up some items to carry with you, especially for
> long trips:
> At least 2 quarts of the engine oil that you use. Don't mix two
> different oils, their chemical additives may not be compatable.
> A pint of the Fleetrite CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888 anti-foaming
> conditioner.
> A fuel filter; either a screwdriver or oil filter wrench to open the
> filter housing; 2 feet of 5/16 hose to attach to the filter drain and
> something to drain it into (ie, a coffee can).
> At least 2 pints of the F8AZ-9C077-AA fuel lubricity conditioner, or
> Stanadye Performance/All Season Fuel Conditioner.
> A pint of the FW-15/-16 DCA4 coolant conditioner.
> If you own an E-van or 99 F-series, air filter(s).
> An accessories drive (serpintine) belt--you may not be able to install
> it yourself, but at least you won't be stranded for lack of one.
> Some other non-essentials: An oil filter, 5 gallons of diesel, jumper
> cables, a CC2602A test kit for the DCA4, and an extension cord for the
> block heater.
>
> Chances are, with as many of these engines out there, you'll come
> across another PowerStroke owner that carries some of these items if
> you are in need, but it's always good to be prepared when on a trip.
>
> For general service and maintenance information and Check List for any
> vehicle click HERE
>
> dieselmann's Store; Diesel Products and Supplies & Perfomance.
> Back to dieselmann's Page
> How the PowerStroke Injection system works
>
> 6.0 PowerStroke and Torqshift Information
>
>
>
>
> Links to other sites on the 'Net
>
> www.thedieselstop.com; (The Ford Diesel Website/Ford-Diesel.com)
> information and discussion for Ford diesel owners
> InterMotive, INC.; Overdrive inverters for automatic transmissions and
> other devices
> International Truck and Engine (Navistar)
> Amsoil product information--lubricants and filters.
> Diesel Injector Service; For all of your diesel engine needs:
> Injection systems, filters, O-ring kits,
> accessories and fuel conditioners
>
> PowerStroke Mail List;
> Information and discussion on 1999 and up Ford F Series Trucks & Ford
> Vans with the
> Ford/Navistar Power Stroke 7.3L Direct Injection Turbo diesel engine.
> Click to subscribe to PowerStroke mail list
>
> Power Stroke Registry
> An organization for PowerStroke owners; quarterly publication
>
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