There seems to be a difference of opinion concerning the transmission fluid
here. The service manual - based upon my driving habits - claims no change
is necessary. The dealer claims - after checking the fluid - no change is
necessary.

I can understand the position one might take if they have changed fluid over
the years with no incidence of trans failure. However, that fact alone -
particularly in view of recommendation from the manufacture NOT to change -
doesn't serve as proof that changing fluid prevents failure. The same
results may have occurred without the changes.

On the other hand, it may be like chicken soup as a remedy for the common;
it can't hurt. That being the case...

Q3) How do I get ALL the fluid out of the system if I drain it myself,
check the magnet, and replace the filter?

Q4) Do I need any "special" tools for any part of the job? (I don't think
I did for the '95 Concorde I had)

Q5) How much would be left in the system if I simply dropped the pan and
drained? (Assuming the pan is the only thing I could drop reasonably)
"Bob Shuman" > wrote in message
...
>I have 4 of these same/very similar Chrysler electronic transmissions in a
> 1991 Mitsubishi 300GT (130K miles) 1996 Eagle Vision (75K miles) , 1999
> T&C
> Minivan (64K miles), and 2001 Dodge Intrepid (40K miles). I have dropped
> the pans and changed all these vehicles transmission fluid (use the
> correct
> ATF+3/4 fluid) and filter on 30-36K mile intervals and all are still
> performing just like when they were new. I am still amazed at the shift
> quality in the 14.5 year old 3000GT every time I drive it! I know that
> dropping the pan does not get all the fluid, but believe that this
> approach
> is much better than the "power flush" recommended at the dealer. I
> personally have seen the gunk in the trans pan and the filings on the
> magnet
> and know these will not come out using the power flush method. I also
> believe in replacing the filter since it can only clog and restrict fluid
> pressure over time.
>
> With regard to the speed sensors, I doubt both were actually defective.
> From what you had described, I would have guessed the output sensor was
> bad.
> I've replaced three of these over the years on the vehicles listed above
> and
> previous Chryslers as well. About two years back the part cost me about
> $25
> or so dollars at the local dealer. Access was a breeze if you can get
> under
> the vehicle and it took about 10 minutes to remove the electrical
> connector
> , unscrew the part using a simple wrench and then screw in the replacement
> and re-connect the connector. I personally do not see the value in the
> price you paid, but then again, you might not have the tools or the
> inclination so $200 to fix it may well be worth it to you.
>
> Bob
>
> "Bill Putney" > wrote in message
> ...
>> maxpower wrote:
>>
>> > "John Gregory" > wrote in message
>> > ...
>> >
>> >>Welp... here's the outcome; $205.00! Replaced both sensors and billed
>> >>me
>> >
>> > for
>> >
>> >>2 hours labor. Told me there was no need to worry about the
>> >>transmission
>> >>fluid; new, improved and designed to withstand the temperatures of
>> >>hell.
>> >>They also did a safety bulletin repair for two seat bolts so they got
> paid
>> >>by Chrysler for that as well.
>> >>
>> >>Did I get rooked?
>> >>
>>
>> > Yup a little steep with the labor
>>
>> Yeah - I'd like to get paid for 2 hours for 30 minutes work. Where do I
>> sign up! I'd at least tell them to knock it back to book rate - and ask
>> them to explain why they take that long to do a 30 minute job.
>>
>> You really should change the fluid and filter regardless of what they
>> say. Every 80k miles would be reasonable. DIY for cost of fluid and
>> filter and 2 hours time, and get a thorough changeout of fluid in the
>> bargain - not less than half from a pan drop.
>>
>> Bill Putney
>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>> adddress with the letter 'x')
>
>