(Alan Russell) wrote in message . com>...
> My wifes Honda won't start when it's been sitting for 6 hours or so.
> I hesitate to call it cold, as we live in South Florida and it does
> this when it's 95 degrees out, but it technically is a 'cold start'
> issue.
>
> So here is what I've done. Attache a FI pressure test guage. As soon
> as I turn the key the guage reads about 38psi, perfect per the manual.
> It maintains pressure when I crank, and I can hear the injectors
> clicking through a screwdriver.
>
> So the FI system seems good.
>
> So my next guess is that its ignition. So I hooked my inductive
> timing light to #2 plug and zip-tied the trigger so it would stay on.
> When I crank the engine the timing light does not blink at ALL. After
> I've cranked it 7 or 8 times (for about 4 seconds at a time) I will
> start to get a blink from the timing light right after I release the
> key! Once it starts doing this, it will start within the next couple
> of trys, but it still only sparks when the key is released from the
> start position to the run position. Once the engine starts I get a
> consistant and non-wobbly spark indicated by the light. I did the
> same test with the same results using an inline spark tester.
>
> The book (I think I have a chiltons) has some ignition tests for me to
> go through, which I will do tomorrow morning, but I'd really just like
> to get this darn thing fixed. Anyone have any idea what this problem
> is?
>
> Alan


Alan,

I am having a similar problem with my 2000 Civic LX. I have replaced
the cap, rotar, and coil on the ingnition system. I replaced the
wires and plugs about 30K ago with Bosch platnum series plugs and
performance wires.
I have also replaced the fuel filter and had all the belts replaced
including water pump, as it has 118K on it. The problem still exists.
I notice a performance problem when accelerating from a stop. The
engine seems to be starved.
I took it over to the Honda dealership and had them put it on the
diagnostic machine, but the only code was an evap code because I had
lost the gas cap a while back. The gas cap had been replaced 40K ago.
They said they saw there were arc marks on the coil, that is why I had
it replaced. They did find that the exhaust manifold was cracked in
the middle, which is common, but I do not believe this is causing the
problem as no gasses appear to escap in enough quantity to cause a
back pressure problem. You can check for a crack by taking out the
two bolts on the top of the exhaust manifold heat shield.
My plan was to go over and buy some new wires and see if they are
somehow causing a shorting problem. Perhaps some cheap champion plugs
as a test too.

Regards,

Jeff