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Old October 26th 04, 02:45 PM
Charlie Giannetto
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In article <iBkfd.7182$HA.5824@attbi_s01>, KWS > wrote:
>Thanks for the response, Pete. Please see my comments
>
>"Pete" > wrote in message
...
>>
>> "KWS" wrote
>> >
>> > I have 60,000 on the 2000 A4 1.8T and it's time to change the oil again.

>>
>> If that's 60K MILES, then it's time to replace your timing belt,

>tensioner,
>> and water pump, too. :-)

>
>Yep. Got the parts, just need a weekend to do the job. I may post this
>separately, but do you happen to know what size the extension bolts are that
>you install to move the front clip forward to service the front of the
>engine?


It's far easier to just disconnect the radiator hoses completely and
swing the entire lock carrier assembly out of the way (to the passenger
side if you don't remove the a/c evaporator). Then you have unobstructed
access to everything on the front of the engine.


>> > 1. Is this standard an overresponse to the "coking" issue in that if

>you
>> > change the oil regularly at, say 5,000 miles, even dino oil will not
>> > present
>> > a coking problem?

>>
>> Had it been an NA engine, I'd say yes. But with turbo, even 5K mile

>changes
>> with dino could result in coking under certain conditions. Generally,
>> turbocharged engines are very hard on oil, and the very high temperatures
>> that exist inside the turbo cooling lines could cause dino oil to coke if
>> you don't observe the proper cool-down procedures.

>
>What is a proper cool-down procedure? Is this like walking a racehorse?


Basically. Just let it idle for a minute or so, especially if you've
driven it hard prior to stopping. You can also just drive it very
easy for the last few miles as that should cool things down as well but
a minute at idle is still a good idea.

> Synthetics can also
>> coke, but can withstand somewhat higher temps.
>>
>>
>> > 2. What is the possibility of this engine that hasn't leaked a drop
>> > starting to leak when I switch to synthetic?

>>
>> There is a chance that a good synthetic oil will start cleaning out the

>crud
>> and open some holes here and there. I'm thinking the worse that can

>happen
>> is that you might have to replace your head gasket.

>
>That's it, huh?


You shouldn't have any problems with this. Even today's dino oil
is far better than the stuff you would have been using years ago.


> I'd rather do that than
>> have to replace my turbo and/or have sludge all over my engine.

>
>What do you mean by sludge all over the engine? Or are you referring to
>inside the engine?


Assuming you've taken care of the car and have changed the oil on or
before the recommended intervals with a quality oil, your engine should
be fine.

>>
>> Before you start using synthetic, at this mileage I think I'd do some
>> cleaning first, with AutoRX for example. http://www.auto-rx.com/

>
>Thanks for the links. I read some of this stuff and, forgive me if I sound a
>little skeptical, but expenisve additives kind of raise warning flags.


I would avoid additives or flushing if at all possible. I just don't
believe that a well maintained engine would require such treatment.

>I am a little surprised that VW/Audi didn't take this a little further and
>either warn or advise owners of higher mileage cars about any adverse
>effects of synthetic. Of course, maybe there are none?


I think you hit the nail on the head. Chaning over to synthetic is far
better than not doing it at all.

- Charlie

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