The report was written in 92, max-life is more recent.
As to "restore", contains ground up rings and bearings that magically go
where needed? It probably would as least raise oil pressure as the dense
metals are harder to pump, and would tend to restrict flow in small spaces.
All I know is that if an engine is messed up to the point where you may
consider an additive as a repair, it's time for a rebuild.

There are a lot of other discussions about oil for motorcycles
http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm (written in 94), the claim that
there is more shearing in the transmission is somewhat valid, but the
solution of more zinc isn't effective because of federal environmental
limits, so they can't put in enough to make a difference, but "motorcycle
oil" is far more expensive anyway. Oils with the "energy conserving" rating
are friction modified, bad for wet clutches.

My 76 Honda goldwing is a great test bed for oils, it has well over 100K
miles, has 3 internal chains, transmission, clutch, and a finicky starter
over-riding clutch all in the same pool of oil. I can tell by the sounds it
makes that it needs an oil change. It gets quieter progressively with this
procession of oils I have run, Quaker, Valvoline, Delo, Kendall, all in
20-50 grade. There is a huge difference in sound from Quaker to Kendall. I
have gone backwards to verify, and the sound changes are consistant.

I did once manage to get a case of Swepco 306,
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/oil.htm , which I think may be the best
out there (used to use it when I worked full-time as a Benz Tech), but poor
marketing and high prices
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...swepco_pg5.htm
,keep it obscured and hard to find. I actually measured an increase of 2 mpg
after the change. Their gear lube will work miracles with noisy BMW
transmissions and diffs.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California