Almost forgot..

How tight should the pan bolts be? I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't
feel that I "overtorqued" them.. I put them all a we bit tighter than a
valve cover to start out.. tightened more when I saw the leak.. no change.

What am I doing wrong for it to leak?

Carl

"Carl Saiyed" > wrote in message
...
> Car in question is 1990 Chev Cavalier with the 3.1 v6. 165k, belongs to my
> girlfriend.
>
> I was going to change her transmission fluid and filter today, and a
series
> of events caused the oil pan to get dented. Started the car and it was
> apparent that the crank was hitting the tray in the pan. Removed the pan,
> the dent caused the tray to bend up, hit somewhere along one of the
> connecting rod ends or something. Still unable to identify where the pan
hit
> the crank.. no apparent damage to the crank, minimal to the pan.
>
> Bent the pan back, cut away part of the tray and bent the rest back.
> Re-installed with a new gasket (took two gaskets and five tries!). The pan
> is sheetmetal and I made sure to straighten it around all the bolt holes.
> Having leaking issues front and side of the pan. Guessing she needs a new
> pan? Leaked with and without sealer.
>
> Also, upon startup there is a high pitched screeching/scraping sound
coming
> from the lower front of the engine.. any ideas? At speed and idle the car
> sounds and runs fine, despite a little tapping.
>
> I cut out a small portion of the tray around the oil pump.. is this a
> problem?
>
> Will a new pan and gasket do it, or is it time to dump the chevy?
>
> Carl
>
>