"Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 00:08:55 -0500, "Daniel J. Stern"
> > wrote:
>
> >On Wed, 26 Jan 2005, William. Boyd wrote:
> >
> >> I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better.
> >
> >Both of them are silly kid stuff. Kroil and Mopar 3418039 are the only
two
> >penetrating fluids worth messing with.
>
> The nut part of the plug, if I read the OP's post correctly, is gone,
> leaving only the threaded bottom portion of the plug in the hole.
>
> With the nut gone, on a dead-cold engine block, there shouldn't be
> _much_ holding the threads in place except for corrosion.
>
> I guess the EZ-out idea is a good one but I would use that as a last
> resort, since you have to drill into the lower part of the plug and
> that is almost guaranteed to place particles of plug in the cylinder.
> I would try a screwdriver blade gently hammered into the porcelain, so
> as not to break it but create a slot for the screwdriver head, and try
> to work -that-. EZ out would be final solution, not first choice.

There's no need to drill anything with the correct size easy-out. The
correct size being 9/16 IIRC.
Since all that remains is the threads the entire porcelain can be removed
with a flex grabber. My first choice would be a beer. But the easy-out is a
close second.
Have you ever really extracted a broken plug?


> And use compressed air to clean out everything before trying to
> unscrew base of plug. I don't think I would go to the trouble of
> pulling the head unless something like the porcelain bottom with the
> electrode fell into the cylinder.
>
> Of course, maybe OP's engine is -easy- to work on. In that case, sure
> pull the head. If it is bank 2 on my engine, it is very simple, but
> put a new head gasket on there for bank 2 before replacing head.
>
> Lg
>