![Old](images/statusicon/post_old.gif)
July 18th 05, 04:11 PM
|
|
Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I have more
experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
Earle
"Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
...
> The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe wrench like a
> regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of the cone
> (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench to grab
> that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get pretty
> messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an oil
> filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
>
> I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be bolted
to
> the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is sufficient.
I
> don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the holes to
hold
> it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole seems like
> excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very humid.
>
> /Peter
>
> "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How about a
> > plumbers pipe wrench?
> >
> > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the socket
> > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under it while
> > still being able to turn.
> >
> > Good luck.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > >
> > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so my wife
> isn't
> > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to fab up
this
> > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of 1/4" x 1
> 1/2"
> > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient, or
should
> I
> > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the one in the
> > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
> driveshaft to
> > > this yoke ...
> > >
> > > /Peter
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> > > ...
> > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if you
don't
> > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of steel up
with
> a
> > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the pinion to
hold
> it
> > > > steady while tightening.
> > > >
> > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and other
kinds
> > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did mine wrong
> > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real' machine shop!
> > > >
> > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you cannot do the
> > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If you do,
you
> > > > fast have a dead box.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the pinion gear
> from
> > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for that.
> This is
> > > a
> > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for a
wrench
> of
> > > any
> > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM for
holding
> the
> > > > > yoke.
> > > > >
> > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers, hubs, and
> axle
> > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back on to
> tighten
> > > the
> > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's right?
> > > > >
> > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
> > > > > ...
> > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't bottomed out as
> the
> > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was up
> against
> > > the
> > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch pounds
without
> > > axles,
> > > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue Loc-Tite
> then.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and tighten the
> nut to
> > > 160
> > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and turned
the
> > > pinion
> > > > > with
> > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so it needs
to
> be
> > > > > tighter.
> > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard to tell
> > > what's
> > > > > lash
> > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a helper
> with
> > > > > stronger
> > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake pedal
> hard
> > > enough
> > > > > to
> > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion nut.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
> > > > > > > ...
> > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that have
> loosened.
> > > If
> > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have is not
> sliding
> > > up
> > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did, as the
> crush
> > > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between them. Have
you
> hit
> > > it
> > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful in
> feeling
> > > with
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but it's been
> re-used
> > > a
> > > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite on it?
Red
> or
> > > Blue?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > /Peter
>
>
|