Ive thought of that before..I think I may try the heat shield before the
rest...great ideas guys...

--

"Winston" > wrote in message
...
> Swabbie wrote:
>> "Winston" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>> Swabbie wrote:
>>>
>>>> this is a problem that has plagued this truck for about 2 years now. I
>>>> have posted this problem on about every ford tech site on the net.
>>>> Still no go.
>>>> heres the situation,
>>>> the truck will crank right up, and drive perfectly to wherever I am
>>>> going. I then turn it off.
>>>> If it has been about 30 miles or so, it will NOT restart until it has
>>>> sat for about 15 minutes(as if it needs to cool down).
>
> Other posters have indicated a chronic heat problem in the starter motor
> and suggest a heat shield. This seems most likely.
>
>>>
>>> Stick? Automatic? auto
>>>
>>> How much current goes to the starter under each condition?
>>> About the same or much more or less under the fault condition?checked it
>>> today, its the same
>>>
>>> Can you reproduce the problem with an unpressurized cooling system?
>>> (Loosen the radiator cap before starting?)NO
>
> This means that the truck always starts at any temperature as long as
> the cooling system is unpressurized. That's what you meant to say,
> yes? The problem cannot be reproduced with an unpressurized cooling
> system.
>
> Cool! I wonder if this means that coolant is leaking into the cylinders
> and bogging down the starter. How is your coolant level? Do you
> have to keep topping it up?
>
>>> If you remove the sparkplugs after the failure, does the engine spin
>>> up at about the right RPM or is it still bogged down, indicating
>>> perhaps a main bearing problem?
>>
>> more detail on this one please, I guess I don't get what you mean
>
> Earlier, you mentioned that the truck always starts at any temperature
> as long as the cooling system is unpressurized, right?
>
> Forget my mention of a main bearing problem. It is looking more as if
> coolant is getting into one or more cylinders.
>
> You also state that the starter motor draws no more current when the
> problem appears.
> This is a puzzlement, because one would expect a 'hydraulically siezed'
> engine to draw much more current through the series - wound starter.
> Removing the plugs and cranking the engine would blow out any water
> collected in the cylinders.
>
>>> Oil look ok? Not 'creamy' as if water has gotten in?
>>> looks fine to me
>
> Good. That means water isn't getting past the rings or valve stem seals.
>
>>> Blue Sky Department:
>>> Sick F.I. computer injecting liquid gas into a couple cylinders?
>>> Sick injector(s) sticking open when heated?
>>> Head gasket leak putting incompressable water in a couple cylinders?
>>>
>>> --Winston
>
> But these wildass guesses are probably wrong and you just need to put a
> heat shield on your starter.
>
> --Winston
>