Thread: AMC 360 Oiling
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Old May 22nd 05, 10:49 PM
Chip
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In that case, I have a link for you. About 1/3 of the way down the page,
you'll see the oil line kit installed.
http://www.fullsizejeep.com/1024/p_engine.htm

Chip




"L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message
...
> Hi Chip,
> I not familiar with APP, nor any oil line kit for AMC's V8, would
> you give an URL to check out.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
> Chip wrote:
>>
>> Bill,
>> I do not really know the history of that engine. I'll never know what
>> happened to the engine before it was installed in my jeep. The original
>> engine was a 304 and has probably been melted down to make fence posts.
>> I
>> do know that the terrible condition of the bearings (some of the cam
>> bearings had buildup on the inside, bearing surface) had a great deal to
>> do
>> with the bad oil pressure. I'm thinking that I should replace the timing
>> cover just to be on the safe side and install the oil line kit from APP
>> in
>> the block to help oil rear main. Does that seem to be the safe appraoch,
>> in
>> your opinion?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Chip
>>
>> "L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > Hi Chip,
>> > If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred
>> > percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially
>> > when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold
>> > Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully
>> > open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is
>> > chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a
>> > combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump
>> > that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on
>> > that
>> > side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason
>> > most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy.
>> > I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification,
>> > again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and
>> > the
>> > gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the
>> > little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html
>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> > http://www.billhughes.com/
>> >
>> > WKJ wrote:
>> >>
>> >> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a
>> >> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure.
>> >> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but,
>> >> I
>> >> do
>> >> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before
>> >> I
>> >> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to
>> >> (almost)
>> >> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy
>> >> of
>> >> the
>> >> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the
>> >> engine
>> >> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover.
>> >>
>> >> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1,
>> >> but
>> >> it
>> >> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've
>> >> grabbed
>> >> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net.
>> >>
>> >> 11) Engine Oiling:
>> >> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor
>> >> gears.
>> >> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug.
>> >> TeamRush's
>> >> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug
>> >> in
>> >> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the
>> >> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the
>> >> block,
>> >> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is
>> >> up,
>> >> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear.
>> >>
>> >> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the
>> >> process,
>> >> if they exist.
>> >>
>> >> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products
>> >> that
>> >> and
>> >> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined
>> >> in
>> >> a
>> >> few locations before it get it back.
>> >>
>> >> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances
>> >> on
>> >> the
>> >> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've
>> >> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that
>> >> is
>> >> not
>> >> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the
>> >> one
>> >> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover?
>> >>
>> >> Chip
>> >>
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