That is the idea Peter. It can take up to 500 ft lb to set that sucker
according to the book I have. I was always told to go at least to 300,
but as mentioned, I have never done one.

Mike

Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> Disregard what, exactly? The bit about the air impact wrench? Seeing as I
> don't have one, that won't be a problem ;-)
>
> Actually, someone mentioned somewhere in this thread that using anything
> further sown the drivetrain to hold the pinion from turning wouldn't work.
> Now that I've played around with it a bit more, I can see - or should I say
> feel - how the gear teeth would cause the pinion to "walk" a bit, thowing
> things off. I think the only way to do this properly is to have something to
> hold the yoke itself, which is what I've done. I've reinstalled it using red
> Loc-Tite on the nut, snugged it up to 160 ft-lbs, and removed my yoke
> grabber. The axle shafts are removed, and it's taking way less torque than
> my inch-lbs torque wrench can measure to turn the pinion.
>
> So, just to make sure, what I should be doing now is increasing the torque
> on the pinion yoke nut incrementally until it takes 30 inch-lbs or so to
> turn the pinion?
>
> /Peter
>
> "Earle Horton" > wrote in message
> news:1121699291.1230ba0de444f436447964b5ba854b66@t eranews...
> > Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I have
> more
> > experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
> > ...
> > > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe wrench like
> a
> > > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of the
> cone
> > > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench to
> grab
> > > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get pretty
> > > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an oil
> > > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
> > >
> > > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be
> bolted
> > to
> > > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is
> sufficient.
> > I
> > > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the holes to
> > hold
> > > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole seems
> like
> > > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very humid.
> > >
> > > /Peter
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> > > ...
> > > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How about a
> > > > plumbers pipe wrench?
> > > >
> > > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the socket
> > > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under it
> while
> > > > still being able to turn.
> > > >
> > > > Good luck.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so my wife
> > > isn't
> > > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to fab up
> > this
> > > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of 1/4" x 1
> > > 1/2"
> > > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient, or
> > should
> > > I
> > > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the one in
> the
> > > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
> > > driveshaft to
> > > > > this yoke ...
> > > > >
> > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> > > > > ...
> > > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if you
> > don't
> > > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of steel up
> > with
> > > a
> > > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the pinion to
> > hold
> > > it
> > > > > > steady while tightening.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and other
> > kinds
> > > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did mine
> wrong
> > > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real' machine
> shop!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you cannot do
> the
> > > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If you do,
> > you
> > > > > > fast have a dead box.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the pinion
> gear
> > > from
> > > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for that.
> > > This is
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for a
> > wrench
> > > of
> > > > > any
> > > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM for
> > holding
> > > the
> > > > > > > yoke.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers, hubs,
> and
> > > axle
> > > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back on to
> > > tighten
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's right?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
> > > > > > > ...
> > > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't bottomed out
> as
> > > the
> > > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was up
> > > against
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch pounds
> > without
> > > > > axles,
> > > > > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue Loc-Tite
> > > then.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and tighten
> the
> > > nut to
> > > > > 160
> > > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and turned
> > the
> > > > > pinion
> > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so it
> needs
> > to
> > > be
> > > > > > > tighter.
> > > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard to
> tell
> > > > > what's
> > > > > > > lash
> > > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a helper
> > > with
> > > > > > > stronger
> > > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake pedal
> > > hard
> > > > > enough
> > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion nut.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in
> message
> > > > > > > > > ...
> > > > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that have
> > > loosened.
> > > > > If
> > > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have is not
> > > sliding
> > > > > up
> > > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did, as the
> > > crush
> > > > > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between them. Have
> > you
> > > hit
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful in
> > > feeling
> > > > > with
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but it's been
> > > re-used
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite on it?
> > Red
> > > or
> > > > > Blue?
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > >
> > >
> >
> >