I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump). With the engine
cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
before it comes up to 800 again.
I checked the connectors (cleaned them with WD40) and the ground cable:
seem fine. Between engine block intake manifold and fire wall I measure ~0
Ohm resistance, so the ground seems good.
I can not reset the error right know, because I don't have the reader
available. But in the past I tried 50 times to reset the error and it is not
erasable. Sometimes the light goes off, but comes back on immediately.
Sometimes the device tells me, the error can't be erased.
At the moment the Check ENgine Light readt out tells me 12, 24, 55. Don't
know what 55 is, 12 means the PCM (or was it PMC) was disconnected from the
battery. I am going to get the reader again to reset the error.

Thanks

Jo


"Stephen Cowell" > wrote in message
. ..

"reigelser" > wrote in message
. ..
> To start the car I have to crank it once for a short time. Even If I crank
> longer it won't start. Then I turn the ignition off completely and start
> again and runs immediately.

You may have more than one problem... try this
sometime... turn on the key, let the thing sit for
ten seconds, then crank... should go vroom.
It this is what you're seeing, you have a fuel
pressure retention problem... either the back-
check valve, or a leaky injector.

> There was no service done prior to the Check
> engine light coming on. The wiper voltage seems very smooth and stable. I
> haven't measured the supply voltage while having the engine running yet.
> Everything else seems to run good: idle speed, kick down response. So
> would
> you recommend an engine cleaning first (engine compartment wasn't cleaned
> in
> a loooong time) and then a rework of the connectors?
> Thanks for all of your advice.

I'm not that big of a believer in engine cleaning...
especially when trying to troubleshoot a problem.
Don't compound your problems right now.. sounds
to me like you've got more than one.

Is the big braided ground wire still connected
between the block and firewall? Look good?

Get some Caig ProGold contact cleaner (sold at Fry's)
and put some in the connector (both ends) for the
TPS... try again. I want to verify that you've cleared
the old ECU code, and it keeps popping a new one...
am I right? Does it pop immediately, or after normal
in-town driving, or only after exhibiting the symptoms
you describe at 60-70mph transition?
__
Steve
..


Lastly, you may have to go through several run/drive
cycles for the ECU to learn the curve of the new TPS...