"reigelser" > wrote in message =
. ..
> To start the car I have to crank it once for a short time. Even If I =
crank=20
> longer it won't start. Then I turn the ignition off completely and =
start=20
> again and runs immediately.=20

You may have more than one problem... try this
sometime... turn on the key, let the thing sit for
ten seconds, then crank... should go vroom.
It this is what you're seeing, you have a fuel
pressure retention problem... either the back-
check valve, or a leaky injector.

> There was no service done prior to the Check=20
> engine light coming on. The wiper voltage seems very smooth and =
stable. I=20
> haven't measured the supply voltage while having the engine running =
yet.=20
> Everything else seems to run good: idle speed, kick down response. So =
would=20
> you recommend an engine cleaning first (engine compartment wasn't =
cleaned in=20
> a loooong time) and then a rework of the connectors?
> Thanks for all of your advice.

I'm not that big of a believer in engine cleaning...
especially when trying to troubleshoot a problem.
Don't compound your problems right now.. sounds
to me like you've got more than one.

Is the big braided ground wire still connected
between the block and firewall? Look good?

Get some Caig ProGold contact cleaner (sold at Fry's)
and put some in the connector (both ends) for the
TPS... try again. I want to verify that you've cleared
the old ECU code, and it keeps popping a new one...
am I right? Does it pop immediately, or after normal
in-town driving, or only after exhibiting the symptoms
you describe at 60-70mph transition?
__
Steve
..


Lastly, you may have to go through several run/drive
cycles for the ECU to learn the curve of the new TPS...