Nomen Nescio > wrote in message >. ..
> 1. The application is to install a rotary shaft oil seal in an aluminum
> housing. The configuration of the seal is with a rubber coated outside
> diameter. The fit in the bored housing is a light push fit. I suspect the
> seal will work loose on its own during service. What is the best way to
> install this seal? Options I've considered include replacing this seal
> constructed with a metal o.d., but this is not normally recommended due to
> the high coefficient of expansion. A more promising solution is to "glue"
> the seal in with Loctite 495, cyanoacrylate adhesive. Will that work?

I suppose a seal with a slightly larger o.d. is not available? that
would be the ideal option. The seal ought to need to be pressed or
lightly hammered in to have any hope of reliable retention.

>
> 2. The problem is installing a chain sprocket onto a keyed tapered shaft
> which is then secured with a retaining nut. What is the best practice:
> Install on clean and dry taper, install on greased taper, or apply a high
> strength Loctite 272 to the taper before assembly? The idea is to make a
> good assembly but be able to disassemble with no more than a puller without
> heat. Am I correct in assuming that the key is designed for indexing but
> the torque is taken up by the taper? If the taper is greased, removal is
> easy, but the torque might be passed on to the key and cause localized
> stress and failure. Clean and dry I think is the standard way of assembly,
> but Loctite application may be in common practice too.

FWIW the standard practice for dealing with tapered-end rear axles
with separate hubs (commonly used on Studebaker, AMC and others) is to
install them clean and dry. They require a lot of force to separate
when torqued to spec, so no worries there. I have heard tell of
people lubing the tapers and subsequently splitting the cast iron
hubs.

nate