Mine got destroyed because the impact gun didn't get it tight enough
although I was assured it was set for 350.

Mike

Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> Hmm. A conundrum has surfaced. I've incrementally increased the torque on
> the pinion nut a few times to the maximum of 250 ft-lbs my torque wrench
> will do. The preload has increased, i can feel more resistance to turning,
> but I can still turn the pinion nut with my in-lbs torque wrench set to it's
> minimum of 25 in-lbs without it clicking.
>
> What do I do? Crank on the pinion nut with a breaker bar and hope I don't go
> to far, or put it all back together and hope the preload is enough as-is?
>
> /Peter
>
> "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> ...
> > That is the idea Peter. It can take up to 500 ft lb to set that sucker
> > according to the book I have. I was always told to go at least to 300,
> > but as mentioned, I have never done one.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > >
> > > Disregard what, exactly? The bit about the air impact wrench? Seeing as
> I
> > > don't have one, that won't be a problem ;-)
> > >
> > > Actually, someone mentioned somewhere in this thread that using anything
> > > further sown the drivetrain to hold the pinion from turning wouldn't
> work.
> > > Now that I've played around with it a bit more, I can see - or should I
> say
> > > feel - how the gear teeth would cause the pinion to "walk" a bit,
> thowing
> > > things off. I think the only way to do this properly is to have
> something to
> > > hold the yoke itself, which is what I've done. I've reinstalled it using
> red
> > > Loc-Tite on the nut, snugged it up to 160 ft-lbs, and removed my yoke
> > > grabber. The axle shafts are removed, and it's taking way less torque
> than
> > > my inch-lbs torque wrench can measure to turn the pinion.
> > >
> > > So, just to make sure, what I should be doing now is increasing the
> torque
> > > on the pinion yoke nut incrementally until it takes 30 inch-lbs or so to
> > > turn the pinion?
> > >
> > > /Peter
> > >
> > > "Earle Horton" > wrote in message
> > > news:1121699291.1230ba0de444f436447964b5ba854b66@t eranews...
> > > > Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I
> have
> > > more
> > > > experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
> > > >
> > > > Earle
> > > >
> > > > "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
> > > > ...
> > > > > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe wrench
> like
> > > a
> > > > > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of
> the
> > > cone
> > > > > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench
> to
> > > grab
> > > > > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get
> pretty
> > > > > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an
> oil
> > > > > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
> > > > >
> > > > > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be
> > > bolted
> > > > to
> > > > > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is
> > > sufficient.
> > > > I
> > > > > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the holes
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole seems
> > > like
> > > > > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very
> humid.
> > > > >
> > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> > > > > ...
> > > > > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How about
> a
> > > > > > plumbers pipe wrench?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the
> socket
> > > > > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under it
> > > while
> > > > > > still being able to turn.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good luck.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so my
> wife
> > > > > isn't
> > > > > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to fab
> up
> > > > this
> > > > > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of 1/4"
> x 1
> > > > > 1/2"
> > > > > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient,
> or
> > > > should
> > > > > I
> > > > > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the one
> in
> > > the
> > > > > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
> > > > > driveshaft to
> > > > > > > this yoke ...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> > > > > > > ...
> > > > > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if
> you
> > > > don't
> > > > > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of steel
> up
> > > > with
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the pinion
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > > steady while tightening.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and
> other
> > > > kinds
> > > > > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did mine
> > > wrong
> > > > > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real' machine
> > > shop!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you cannot
> do
> > > the
> > > > > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If you
> do,
> > > > you
> > > > > > > > fast have a dead box.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the
> pinion
> > > gear
> > > > > from
> > > > > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for
> that.
> > > > > This is
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for a
> > > > wrench
> > > > > of
> > > > > > > any
> > > > > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM for
> > > > holding
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > yoke.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers,
> hubs,
> > > and
> > > > > axle
> > > > > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back on
> to
> > > > > tighten
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's
> right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in
> message
> > > > > > > > > ...
> > > > > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't bottomed
> out
> > > as
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was
> up
> > > > > against
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch pounds
> > > > without
> > > > > > > axles,
> > > > > > > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue
> Loc-Tite
> > > > > then.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and
> tighten
> > > the
> > > > > nut to
> > > > > > > 160
> > > > > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and
> turned
> > > > the
> > > > > > > pinion
> > > > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so it
> > > needs
> > > > to
> > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > tighter.
> > > > > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard
> to
> > > tell
> > > > > > > what's
> > > > > > > > > lash
> > > > > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a
> helper
> > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > stronger
> > > > > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake
> pedal
> > > > > hard
> > > > > > > enough
> > > > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion
> nut.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in
> > > message
> > > > > > > > > > > ...
> > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that
> have
> > > > > loosened.
> > > > > > > If
> > > > > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have is
> not
> > > > > sliding
> > > > > > > up
> > > > > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did, as
> the
> > > > > crush
> > > > > > > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between them.
> Have
> > > > you
> > > > > hit
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful
> in
> > > > > feeling
> > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but it's
> been
> > > > > re-used
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite on
> it?
> > > > Red
> > > > > or
> > > > > > > Blue?
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >