wrote:
>
> "JazzMan" > wrote in message
> ...
> > mbjj wrote:
> > >
> > > Before I go taking off the head of this 1.0L Metro engine I'd like to
> know
> > > how a burnt valve acts in relation to the performance of the engine.
> What it
> > > is doing is acting like a bad miss. Like it even has water in the gas.
> It
> > > sputters and misses when it's under load [like climbing a hill or
> > > mountain]. On straight roads when the load is reduced it straightens out
> > > and runs well. I'm going to do a compression check here in a little bit
> and
> > > also change the plugs, wires and distributor cap before I get into the
> > > head. We just bought this thing knowing it has a problem and the seller
> > > seems to think he burned a valve. It also produces a puff of oil related
> > > smoke out of the exhaust just after you start it [cold] and put it into
> > > gear. It quickly goes away when shifting out of 1st and doesn't come
> back
> > > again until it cools off and restarts.
> >
> > The 1.0 3-cyl is notorious for burning exhaust valves. The
> > effect is to lose compression on one one cylinder, creating
> > a miss. Just get a rebuilt head and install it along with
> > a new timing belt and you'll be fine. The last one I did
> > the head was $325 at the local rebuilder.
> >
> > JazzMan
>
> Usually a machine shop will grind the valves, install new seals, and even
> true the mating surface
> for a lot less than that. Essentially a head rebuild... is there something
> special about this one
> that would make you pay for a head exchange at this cost rather than
> revamping the old one?

The $325 included a fully rebuilt head with new valves
and a FelPro top end set including head gasket, it was
a complete plug and play installation. Time from pulling
the old head to installing the new head was less than two
hours.

JazzMan
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