Ping Speedy
 

Speedy Jim (or anyone with a spare starter sitting around):

Does anyone know the typical current draw of starter motor Terminal 50?
Or, lacking that, the typical DC resistance between Terminal 50 and the
body of the starter (ground)?

The Wonderbus has a 15A fuse inline with Terminal 50 on the starter.
This is the terminal that the ignition switch applies +12 to when you
want the starter to go 'round and 'round. When the ignition key just
caused my aftermarket relay to "click" without accompanying starter
action, I inspected the fuse and found it blown. Thus no +12 on Terminal
50, thus no starter action. I popped in another fuse (a 30A one on hand)
and the starter now operates.

I reckon either 15 amps is too close to the typical current draw, or
Something More Evil occurred to pop the fuse.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

I can see clearly now, the brain is gone...
------------------------------------

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

> Speedy Jim (or anyone with a spare starter sitting around):
>
> Does anyone know the typical current draw of starter motor Terminal 50?
> Or, lacking that, the typical DC resistance between Terminal 50 and the
> body of the starter (ground)?
>
> The Wonderbus has a 15A fuse inline with Terminal 50 on the starter.
> This is the terminal that the ignition switch applies +12 to when you
> want the starter to go 'round and 'round. When the ignition key just
> caused my aftermarket relay to "click" without accompanying starter
> action, I inspected the fuse and found it blown. Thus no +12 on Terminal
> 50, thus no starter action. I popped in another fuse (a 30A one on hand)
> and the starter now operates.
>
> I reckon either 15 amps is too close to the typical current draw, or
> Something More Evil occurred to pop the fuse.
>
The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in.
That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there.
If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a
big automotive-style circuit breaker.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

On 12/18/2004 4:23 PM Speedy Jim wrote:

> Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
>
>> Speedy Jim (or anyone with a spare starter sitting around):
>>
>> Does anyone know the typical current draw of starter motor Terminal
>> 50? Or, lacking that, the typical DC resistance between Terminal 50
>> and the body of the starter (ground)?
>>
>> The Wonderbus has a 15A fuse inline with Terminal 50 on the starter.
>> This is the terminal that the ignition switch applies +12 to when you
>> want the starter to go 'round and 'round. When the ignition key just
>> caused my aftermarket relay to "click" without accompanying starter
>> action, I inspected the fuse and found it blown. Thus no +12 on
>> Terminal 50, thus no starter action. I popped in another fuse (a 30A
>> one on hand) and the starter now operates.
>>
>> I reckon either 15 amps is too close to the typical current draw, or
>> Something More Evil occurred to pop the fuse.
>>
> The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in.
> That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there.
> If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a
> big automotive-style circuit breaker.

30A? Well, that goes a long way toward explaining why the fuse popped!
Thanks, Jim! Where'd you find the spec?

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
et> wrote in message
...
> On 12/18/2004 4:23 PM Speedy Jim wrote:
>
>> Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
>>
>>> Speedy Jim (or anyone with a spare starter sitting around):
>>>
>>> Does anyone know the typical current draw of starter motor Terminal 50?
>>> Or, lacking that, the typical DC resistance between Terminal 50 and the
>>> body of the starter (ground)?
>>>
>>> The Wonderbus has a 15A fuse inline with Terminal 50 on the starter.
>>> This is the terminal that the ignition switch applies +12 to when you
>>> want the starter to go 'round and 'round. When the ignition key just
>>> caused my aftermarket relay to "click" without accompanying starter
>>> action, I inspected the fuse and found it blown. Thus no +12 on Terminal
>>> 50, thus no starter action. I popped in another fuse (a 30A one on hand)
>>> and the starter now operates.
>>>
>>> I reckon either 15 amps is too close to the typical current draw, or
>>> Something More Evil occurred to pop the fuse.
>>>
>> The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in.
>> That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there.
>> If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a
>> big automotive-style circuit breaker.
>
> 30A? Well, that goes a long way toward explaining why the fuse popped!
> Thanks, Jim! Where'd you find the spec?
>
> --
> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
> 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
> 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
> KG6RCR

If you want over-current protection, you might see if you can get one of
those newfangled fusible links in the 30-50 amp range. Probably survive
better than a straight fuse. The fusible link off my battery is 12 years
old.

Charles of Kankakee

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

> On 12/18/2004 4:23 PM Speedy Jim wrote:

>> The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in.
>> That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there.
>> If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a
>> big automotive-style circuit breaker.
>
>
> 30A? Well, that goes a long way toward explaining why the fuse popped!
> Thanks, Jim! Where'd you find the spec?
>
Oh, I have my sources <g>, but I think John Henry has a section
on the starter too:
http://www.thebugshop.org/


Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

On 12/18/2004 5:30 PM Charles Fregeau wrote:

> "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
> et> wrote in message
> ...
>
>>On 12/18/2004 4:23 PM Speedy Jim wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Speedy Jim (or anyone with a spare starter sitting around):
>>>>
>>>>Does anyone know the typical current draw of starter motor Terminal 50?
>>>>Or, lacking that, the typical DC resistance between Terminal 50 and the
>>>>body of the starter (ground)?
>>>>
>>>>The Wonderbus has a 15A fuse inline with Terminal 50 on the starter.
>>>>This is the terminal that the ignition switch applies +12 to when you
>>>>want the starter to go 'round and 'round. When the ignition key just
>>>>caused my aftermarket relay to "click" without accompanying starter
>>>>action, I inspected the fuse and found it blown. Thus no +12 on Terminal
>>>>50, thus no starter action. I popped in another fuse (a 30A one on hand)
>>>>and the starter now operates.
>>>>
>>>>I reckon either 15 amps is too close to the typical current draw, or
>>>>Something More Evil occurred to pop the fuse.
>>>>
>>>
>>> The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in.
>>> That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there.
>>> If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a
>>> big automotive-style circuit breaker.
>>
>>30A? Well, that goes a long way toward explaining why the fuse popped!
>>Thanks, Jim! Where'd you find the spec?
>>
>>--
>>Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
>>71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
>>84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
>>KG6RCR
>
>
> If you want over-current protection, you might see if you can get one of
> those newfangled fusible links in the 30-50 amp range. Probably survive
> better than a straight fuse. The fusible link off my battery is 12 years
> old.

Thanx, Chas. I don't feel any need for overcurrent protection in that
line. The fuseholder came with the relay and I just sort of installed
it. It's clearly not necessary. I'll stick a "penny" in the fuseholder
or chop it out altogether the next time I'm under the Wonderbus.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

There is no distinctly native American criminal class except Congress.
-- Mark Twain
------------------------------------

"Charles Fregeau" > wrote in message
...
>
> If you want over-current protection, you might see if you can get one of
> those newfangled fusible links in the 30-50 amp range. Probably survive
> better than a straight fuse. The fusible link off my battery is 12 years
> old.

Aw heck! Just install a knife-switch on the dash. Okay, then just a robust
industrial button. We don need no steekin fuse!

Or you can try the old "add a relay" trick to lessen the load on your
switch.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!

On 12/18/2004 5:31 PM Speedy Jim wrote:

> Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
>
>> On 12/18/2004 4:23 PM Speedy Jim wrote:
>
>
>>> The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in.
>>> That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there.
>>> If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a
>>> big automotive-style circuit breaker.
>>
>>
>>
>> 30A? Well, that goes a long way toward explaining why the fuse popped!
>> Thanks, Jim! Where'd you find the spec?
>>
> Oh, I have my sources <g>,

We have ways to make you talk! Everyone hold him down while I make him
look at this picture of Michael Jackson naked!

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

Why depend on a damn wimpy fuse? If your car needs 100 amps, give it up!
The wires supplying it will let you know by turning red or setting
something nearby on fire. No bright red wires, no fire, no problem!


jjs wrote:
> "Charles Fregeau" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>If you want over-current protection, you might see if you can get one of
>>those newfangled fusible links in the 30-50 amp range. Probably survive
>>better than a straight fuse. The fusible link off my battery is 12 years
>>old.
>
>
> Aw heck! Just install a knife-switch on the dash. Okay, then just a robust
> industrial button. We don need no steekin fuse!
>
>